Argireline: how to use it?

The argireline, known by its INCI name "Acetyl Hexapeptide-8", is a peptide increasingly used for its smoothing effect on expression wrinkles. Its action relies on modulating the release of acetylcholine at nerve terminals, which reduces the contractions of the facial muscles responsible for wrinkles. By reducing these repetitive contractions, argireline helps to smooth existing wrinkles and prevent the formation of new ones, especially around the eyes and the mouth, areas subject to frequent movement. Some studies also suggest a beneficial effect of argireline on the activity of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for synthesising collagen and elastin, molecules essential for skin suppleness and elasticity, but these studies remain at a preliminary stage.

Alongside this anti-wrinkle action, argireline could also indirectly contribute to skin hydration. By relaxing fibroblasts and limiting extracellular matrix contraction, it would aid water retention in the dermis and epidermis, thereby contributing to a plumping effect. However, these potential hydrating properties of argireline remain under-explored and merit further investigation.

The argireline is very often compared to botox, owing to their similar mode of action: both target the neuromuscular signalling responsible for expression lines. The botox is injected directly into the muscle to block the release of acetylcholine, whereas argireline partially mimics this effect by inhibiting neurotransmitter release via interference with the SNARE complex, which mediates neurotransmitter exocytosis.

Unlike botox, argireline is intended for topical application.

However, a few injection attempts have been reported, even though they are neither a standard practice nor a technique supported by the scientific literature. A notable case described a severe infection with Mycobacterium abscessus following the injection of argireline. The patient exhibited erythema, nodules and an abscess, which required prolonged antibiotic therapy and resulted in scarring and hyperpigmentation residual. That being said, this type of complication is more attributable to the invasive nature of the procedure and the associated risk of contamination than to the peptide itself.

If the argireline is mainly used in topical applications, its method of use varies according to the type of product in which it is incorporated. It is mainly found in aqueous serums, lightweight, fast-absorbing formulations that enable targeted application to areas prone to expression lines, such as crow’s feet, forehead lines or frown lines. Argireline is also included in facial creams, which also contain hydrating, plumping and/or tightening agents to provide a more comprehensive effect. Finally, it is common in eye contour treatments for the eye contour, an area where muscle contractions and the thinness of the skin promote the rapid onset of dynamic wrinkles.

Argireline can theoretically be applied morning and evening, as it is not a photosensitising agent. It can be incorporated daily into a skincare routine, whether for a preventive effect on expression lines or to diminish the appearance of those already present. The serums are generally applied after cleansing, to dry or slightly damp skin, before the moisturiser. Creams and eye contour treatments containing argireline can be used as the final step in the evening skincare routine of the evening, or under a sunscreen in the morning.

Even though the argireline is an active ingredient that is generally well tolerated, it is important to follow suppliers' instructions. Combinations of active compounds and their intended effects vary from one product to another, which can affect the frequency of application or the necessary precautions.

• WANG Y. & al. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2013).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The peptide argireline – The importance of local application on the skin, in the light of current knowledge. Letters in Drug Design & Discovery (2017).

• HU X.-P. & al. Mycobacterium abscessus infection after facial injection of argireline: A case report. World Journal of Clinical Cases (2021).