Are there any risks associated with the use of argireline?

The argireline, or acetyl hexapeptide-8, is a biomimetic peptide increasingly used in treatments targeting expression lines. Its distinctive feature lies in its mode of action: it partially interferes with the release of neurotransmitters that enable facial muscle contraction, which helps to lessen the depth of expression lines. More precisely, the argireline is derived from the SNAP-25 protein and modulates the assembly of the SNARE complex, a key component of neuromuscular communication. By limiting the transmission of contraction signals to the superficial muscle fibres, this peptide reproduces in a targeted, albeit milder, way the mechanism observed with the botox, which explains its appeal for gradually reducing the micro-contractions responsible for the first wrinkles, without resorting to invasive procedures.

The body of available research indicates that argireline has an excellent tolerability profile when applied to the skin.

Clinical trials carried out with this peptide have reported no irritation, allergic reactions or signs of toxicity at the doses typically employed. Its topical use thus remains considered safe under normal application conditions. However, although the clinical data are reassuring, some toxicological investigations call for caution. An in vitro study demonstrated an antiproliferative effect on various human cell lines, notably fibroblasts. However, this effect only appeared at extremely high concentrations, well above those used in cosmetics, which strongly limits the translatability of these observations to the use of argireline on the skin.

The rare reports of adverse effects associated with argireline mainly involve practices that deviate from its usual cosmetic application, particularly injections. A single case thus describes an infection with Mycobacterium abscessus on the forehead and temples following an argireline injection, presenting as inflammatory nodules, erythema and an abscess requiring antibiotic therapy. This complication is nonetheless not related to the effects of argireline, but to the invasive nature of the procedure and the intrinsic risk of contamination.

Regarding pregnant or lactating women, no study has identified any specific deleterious effect associated with argireline. Moreover, there is no indication that this peptide is teratogenic, that is, that it increases the risk of foetal malformation. However, in the absence of specific studies and as a precautionary principle, it is generally recommended to seek advice from a doctor.

Finally, as with any new active ingredient, it is recommended to introduce argireline gradually into your skincare routine. A patch test preliminary test, conducted by applying a small amount of the product to the crook of the elbow, the wrist or behind the ear and waiting 48 hours to confirm the absence of any reaction, allows for assessment of individual tolerance and anticipation of potential sensitivity. This simple step helps to make the use of cosmetics safer, even those reputedly very well tolerated.

• WANG Y. & al. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2013).

• KIEC-KONONOWICZ K. & al. The study of cellular cytotoxicity of argireline - An anti-aging peptide. Acta Biochimica Polonica (2014).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The peptide argireline – The importance of local application on the skin, in the light of current knowledge. Letters in Drug Design & Discovery (2017).

• HU X.-P. & al. Mycobacterium abscessus infection after facial injection of argireline: A case report. World Journal of Clinical Cases (2021).