Routine de soin première rides.

First wrinkles: the right habits.

The ageing process is continuous and inevitable, and the first signs of ageing can begin to be felt as early as our twenties. However, by adopting certain simple habits, it is possible to prevent them and slow their onset. Discover in this article what habits to adopt to deal with the first wrinkles.

Habit No.1: Protecting your skin from UV rays.

Sun exposure is one of the primary factors of skin ageing : for the lightest phototypes, it is estimated that over 80% of ageing signs result from UV rays. By generating oxidative stress in skin cells, they damage DNA chains, cell membranes, structural proteins, as well as certain biological processes like melanogenesis, leading to a loss of skin firmness and pigmentation disorders. To prevent these inconveniences, the first step to take is to apply daily a sunscreen, even when the weather is cloudy as UV rays can penetrate through the clouds.

A recent study conducted by SOUTHALL involving 32 volunteers demonstrated the effects of daily application of a cream with an SPF 30 on photoaging over a year. After three months, an average improvement of 25% in skin texture was measured, increasing to 40% after a year. Similarly, a positive change in the appearance of wrinkles by about 25% was observed after three months and this was maintained throughout the duration of the study.

The daily application of sun protection can not only diminish the appearance of initial wrinkles but also limit their progression.

Habit No. 2: Hydrate your skin daily.

Hydration also plays a crucial role in preventing the onset of initial wrinkles. Indeed, when the skin is dehydrated and the hydrolipidic film is weakened, small lines with a telling name appear at the corners of the eyes and lips: the dehydration fine lines. These primarily result from the gradual decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid and sebum, coupled with the increase in insensible water loss over time, due to the atrophy of the skin barrier.

In order to compensate for water loss and restore the skin's hydration balance, it is important to apply a moisturising cream containing good emollient agents, such as squalane or glycerine, as well as nourishing ingredients, like aloe vera gel, shea butter, or even vegetable oils. In addition to limiting water loss, these active ingredients strengthen the epidermal barrier, which makes wrinkles less visible.

Habit No.3: Maintaining a consistent and suitable skincare routine.

To combat the onset of wrinkles, it is also wise to have a daily skincare routine tailored to your skin type and its needs. While 3 steps are essential for good skin health (cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection), it is possible and even beneficial to personalise it by adding active ingredients through additional steps. In the case of initial wrinkles, the most recognised ingredients are vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, peptides, and retinoids. These components boost collagen production by fibroblasts and protect the skin from free radicals, which are involved in premature ageing.

MAVON and its team have recently explored the benefits of an advanced skincare routine compared to a traditional routine. The former included a cleanser, a toner, an eye contour, a serum, a day cream with SPF30, and a night cream, while the latter consisted of a cleanser and a day cream. Over a period of 4 weeks, 49 women aged between 25 and 55, divided into two groups, followed one or the other of these routines. The first group showed a significantly greater improvement in several skin parameters, including a 7.3% reduction in the depth of crow's feet wrinkles, and a 10.7% reduction in nasolabial fold depth.

Patience and precision are essential to achieve results when implementing a new skincare routine.

Habit No. 4: Opt for a healthy and diverse diet.

To anticipate and limit the onset of initial wrinkles, as well as to take care of one's health in a more comprehensive manner, it is also recommended to maintain a balanced diet . Prioritise fruits and vegetables over processed meals, which are high in sugars and fats, to avoid the degradation of collagen, which provides skin tissues with mechanical resistance to stretching. Indeed, a study conducted with 450 individuals over the age of 70 from various countries established a correlation between diet and the appearance of wrinkles. Throughout their lives, the least wrinkled subjects followed a diet primarily composed of vegetables, olive oil, nuts, dried fruits, apples, tea, eggs, and yoghurt, while those more marked by signs of ageing had a higher consumption of alcohol, whole milk, red meat, starches, soda, and sweets.

Other studies have also shown that antioxidants, predominantly found in dark chocolate, turmeric, artichoke, apple, and broccoli, along with polyunsaturated fatty acids such as omega-3 and omega-6, found in oily fish and oilseeds, are allies in preventing skin ageing. Indeed, the former eliminate free radicals while the latter reduce inflammation, an underappreciated factor in ageing at the cellular level.

Habit No.5: Avoid factors that exacerbate ageing.

Tobacco interacts synergistically with UV rays in the ageing of the epidermis. Numerous studies have highlighted that chronic smoking has a significant impact on skin elasticity. The reason is straightforward: the nicotine in cigarettes damages the skin's elastic fibres and thus accelerates skin sagging. Lifelong smoking therefore weakens the skin and intensifies the appearance of initial wrinkles.

Furthermore, excessive alcohol consumption is also discouraged when dealing with the first signs of wrinkles, as this behaviour leads to the shortening of telomeres, the protective DNA regions located at the ends of chromosomes. As they shorten, they lose their function, which triggers the onset of cellular senescence. This process is characterised by an irreversible halt of the cell cycle, as well as by specific cellular and molecular changes that notably result in a slowdown of cell renewal and the production of collagen and elastin.

Sources

  • WAHLQVIST M.L. & al. Skin Wrinkles: Can Diet Make a Difference? Journal of the American College of Nutrition (2001).

  • MORITA A. Tobacco smoke leads to premature skin ageing. Journal of Dermatological Science (2007).

  • FARWICK M. & al. Efficacy of Cream-Based Novel Formulations of Hyaluronic Acid of Different Molecular Weights in Anti-Wrinkle Treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011).

  • SOUTHALL M. & al. Daily Application of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Markedly Enhances Clinical Assessment of Photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery (2016).

  • MOHIUDDIN AK. & others. Skin ageing & contemporary anti-ageing strategies. International Journal of Clinical Dermatology & Research (2019).

  • MAVON A. & al. Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).

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