First wrinkles: which skincare regimen should you adopt?

Initial wrinkles are the result of several biological mechanisms that were previously invisible. They are most often due to expression lines, that is, they are caused by the various facial movements performed daily, such as frowning, smiling and squinting. Initial wrinkles also reveal a progressive slowing of cellular renewal in the epidermis. Over time, keratinocytes migrate more slowly to the surface, which alters skin texture and makes the creases more pronounced. In parallel, the appearance of initial wrinkles reflects the decrease in the production of dermal support fibres, such as collagen and elastin, by fibroblasts.

The appearance of the first wrinkles also indicates the cumulative influence of oxidative stress and daily aggressions. UV radiation and pollution stimulate the formation of free radicals that gradually damage the skin’s proteins and lipids. When these reactive species exceed the epidermis’ natural antioxidant defences, they weaken the dermal structure, provoke inflammation and accentuate fine lines.

The earliest wrinkles are therefore not solely a matter of age and also reflect the degree to which the skin has been exposed to a pro-oxidant environment.

Hydration plays a pivotal role as soon as the first wrinkles appear, since a dehydrated skin reveals the folds associated with skin ageing much more readily. Indeed, when the hydrolipidic film weakens and transepidermal water loss increases, fine lines deepen (often around the eyes). To offset this water loss and restore the skin’s hydration balance, a daily application of humectant agents and emollients is essential: glycerine, squalane, aloe vera, plant butters and oils restore the cohesion of the skin barrier and reduce water evaporation. Strengthening the skin’s ability to retain water helps to restore suppleness and soften the first wrinkles.

The importance of hydration in combating early wrinkles is also supported by clinical data. A study conducted on 25 women aged 30 to 45 with mild signs of ageing evaluated the effect of a cream containing 8% purple sweet potato extract, rich in antioxidants. After six weeks of daily application, CT scan analyses revealed a significant improvement in several skin parameters, such as wrinkle depth, hydration and elasticity. Although the study comprised only a single group without a placebo, these results underscore the importance of maintaining adequate hydration to support the structure of the skin when the first wrinkles appear.

Sun exposure is one of the primary factors in skin ageing. By generating oxidative stress within skin cells, UV rays are responsible for damaging DNA strands, cellular membranes and structural proteins, as well as certain biological processes such as melanogenesis, leading to a loss of skin firmness and the emergence of pigmentary disorders. To prevent these issues, the first step when early wrinkles appear is to apply a daily sunscreen, even when the weather is cloudy, as UV rays can penetrate clouds.

A study conducted on 903 adults under the age of 55 particularly highlighted the impact of sun care with an SPF on skin ageing. Participants were randomly allocated into two groups: the first was instructed to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, while its use in the second group was left to personal discretion. After 4.5 years of follow-up, blinded evaluations showed that the group applying sunscreen each day exhibited no detectable progression in skin ageing, whereas skin age increased markedly in those applying it only occasionally. The study even reveals a 24% reduction in the progression of ageing signs in the group using an SPF daily.

Daily application of sun protection can not only attenuate early existing wrinkles, but also limit their progression.

Integrating antioxidants into a skincare routine makes perfect sense as soon as the first wrinkles appear, since these active ingredients target one of the central mechanisms of skin ageing: oxidative stress. Antioxidants such as vitamin C, polyphenols and ferulic acid, neutralise the free radicals before they attack cellular constituents and bolster the epidermis’s defence systems. Their regular application thus helps preserve the integrity of the dermis and slow the transition of superficial fine lines into more pronounced wrinkles.

This approach is underpinned by clinical evidence. In a study conducted among 20 women aged 30 to 50, the daily application of a serum composed of vitamin C and a peptide resulted, after several weeks, in a significant improvement in skin appearance, both reducing crow’s feet and enhancing overall tone uniformity. According to the authors, these outcomes stem from the actives’ ability to protect cells against oxidative stress, stimulate epidermal regeneration and inhibit tyrosinase.

Patience and rigour are essential to achieve results when implementing a new skin care routine.

Beyond topical skin care, the first wrinkles also reflect lifestyle. Diet plays a crucial role: a regular intake of natural antioxidants (berries, colourful vegetables, nuts, green tea) helps support cellular defences against free radicals, while essential fatty acids contribute to the proper functioning of the skin barrier. Conversely, the smoking clearly accelerates wrinkle formation by reducing tissue oxygenation, decreasing collagen production and increasing oxidative stress.

The sleep and stress also influence skin quality, particularly when the first fine lines appear. At night, skin regeneration peaks and fibroblasts strengthen the dermal matrix: inadequate rest disrupts these biological cycles, manifesting as a duller complexion and less plump skin. Chronic stress, via prolonged cortisol elevation, in turn weakens structural proteins, increases inflammation and upsets the skin’s water balance.

Lifestyle factors (diet, sleep patterns, stress management, smoking…) serve as a critical lever for supporting the skin during the formation of early wrinkles.

• WAHLQVIST M. L. & al. Skin wrinkling: Can food make a difference? Journal of the American College of Nutrition (2001).

• RAMOS-E-SILVA M. & al. Anti-aging cosmetics: Facts and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology (2013).

• GREEN A. C. & al. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: A randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine (2013).

• RICHTER K. & al. Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules (2015).

• KIM B.-G. & al. Effects of vitamin C and SH-polypeptide-10 cosmetic ingredients on wrinkle improvement and skin whitening. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology (2024).

• WINAYA K. K. & al. Effect of 8% purple sweet potato extract cream on wrinkle reduction, skin moisture, and elasticity. Berkala Ilmu Kesehatan Kulit dan Kelamin (2025).