Squalane is an ingredient frequently found in cosmetic treatments aimed at preventing and reducing signs of skin ageing such as wrinkles and fine lines. But does this lipid truly have firming effects? Let's together explore the action of squalane on wrinkles and fine lines.
Wrinkles and fine lines: what are the effects of squalane?
Published on July 17, 2024, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
Themes:
Can squalane reduce wrinkles and fine lines?
Wrinkles and fine lines are the first visible signs of skin ageing and result from the loss of elasticity and suppleness in the skin. Indeed, generally around the age of 30, the levels of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and sebum secreted by the skin decrease. These biological changes not only lead to the drying and thinning of the epidermis, but also its loss of firmness. Furthermore, the fat present in the subcutaneous tissues tends to sag, which contributes to weakening the skin's structure and the emergence of wrinkles. To these various elements are added external factors such as UV rays as well as tobacco and pollution, all of which generate oxidative stress in skin cells.
Very few cosmetic actives possess a genuine tensing effect that allows them to reduce wrinkles.
With regard to squalane, there is currently no scientific evidence that this lipid can act on wrinkles and fine lines. Indeed, no clinical trial has measured the impact of using this lipid on a population with wrinkles. Only one study could potentially suggest that squalane might have an effect on skin sagging. This was conducted with 47 women aged between 18 and 50 years. For 28 days, these volunteers applied a serum based on bakuchiol and squalane to their faces daily. On average, the researchers observed an increase of 11.9% in skin elasticity at the end of the study. However, it is possible that this improvement is solely due to bakuchiol, whose tightening effect has been demonstrated in numerous other studies.
Note : While it is impossible to assert that squalane can reduce wrinkles and fine lines, there are reasons to believe that the use of this active ingredient is relevant in the prevention of skin sagging. Indeed, a daily intake of squalane can help to compensate for the decrease in sebum production by the sebaceous glands. The moisturising properties and the ability of squalane to strengthen the skin barrier have been demonstrated in several studies. By contributing to the maintenance of the skin's water balance, squalane makes the skin less prone to the early appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Sources
Final Report on the Safety Evaluation of Squalane and Squalene. International Journal of Toxicology (1982).
KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological significance and uses of squalene and squalane.Progress in Food and Nutrition Research(2012).
TOBIN D. J. Introduction to Skin Ageing. Journal of Tissue Viability (2017).
GHOLAP A. & al. Daily application of a facial serum containing bakuchiol and squalane influences skin aesthetics. CosmoDerma (2023).
