What are the benefits of squalane for the skin?

Squalane is the hydrogenated, stable form of squalene, a lipid naturally present in the sebum, where it helps protect the skin from dehydration. Thanks to its biological kinship, it is recognised by the epidermis and works in synergy with the skin’s lipids. This squalane’s excellent affinity makes it a preferred ingredient for enhancing the skin barrier function. By integrating into the hydrolipidic film, squalane compensates for lipid deficiencies often observed in dry or dehydrated skin. It thus reduces water loss and helps the skin regain its suppleness and comfort, while alleviating feelings of tightness. Furthermore, contrary to some claims, the squalane penetrates well into the skin and does not clog pores: oily or acne-prone skin can therefore use it without concern.

Squalane is an ally for dry skin or skin exposed to environmental aggressors such as pollution, wind and temperature fluctuations...

A recent study assessed the effects of an emollient containing squalane, ceramides and 5% urea on the skin barrier of elderly subjects suffering from xerosis, a severe form of dryness. 21 volunteers over the age of 60 applied the cream to one forearm for 28 days, while the other forearm remained untreated. The researchers measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration via stratum corneum capacitance and surface pH before and after the protocol. The results showed an average decrease in TEWL of 1.07 ± 0.29 g/m²/h, indicating improved water retention, as well as a pH reduction of 0.15 ± 0.07 units, indicative of a shift towards an acid balance favourable to the skin barrier. Skin hydration also increased by 2.09 ± 0.95 units, even 12 hours after the final application, demonstrating a lasting effect.

These findings suggest that squalane, in combination with other active ingredients naturally present in the skin, such as ceramides and urea, helps to restore the skin’s barrier function and improve hydration in very dry skin.

Squalane thus contributes to the skin’s hydration and strengthens the hydrolipidic film. By reinforcing the skin barrier, it limits water loss and protects the skin from external aggressors responsible for oxidation and the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres. This protective role helps to preserve the skin’s elasticity and suppleness. Indeed, an intact and functional skin barrier is the first step in delaying the appearance of wrinkles and skin laxity.

To date, few studies have been conducted on the effects of squalane on skin ageing.

However, a clinical study assessed the effects of a formulation containing squalane and bakuchiol on 47 women aged 18 to 50 years and exhibiting phototypes III and IV according to the classification of Fitzpatrick. For four weeks, the participants applied the cream once a day, while the researchers evaluated various skin parameters using instrumental measurements.

The results demonstrated a significant improvement in skin elasticity, with an average increase of 11.9% after 28 days. Concurrently, a decrease in transepidermal water loss was observed, indicating strengthened barrier function. The study also revealed a brightening of the complexion and a significant reduction in pigmented spots, with an average increase of 38.28% in the ITA parameter after two weeks, reaching 50.32% after four weeks, reflecting more uniform and luminous skin. For information, the ITA parameter measures the degree of skin pigmentation.

Nevertheless, it is difficult to assert that squalane genuinely contributed to improving skin elasticity or if the bakuchiol, the tightening effects of which have been recognised in multiple studies, was solely responsible.

Squalane is not only an excellent emollient agent : it also serves as a carrier that facilitates the diffusion of other active ingredients through the skin. Its lipid-like structure, closely resembling that of sebum, confers a natural affinity for the lipids of the stratum corneum, thereby promoting better interaction between cosmetic formulations and the skin barrier. This enables certain actives to be more effectively absorbed by the superficial layers of the skin, while also improving their stability.

A study ex vivo explored this carrier role of squalane using a porcine skin model, closely resembling human skin, to assess its ability to promote the penetration of polyphenols, natural compounds renowned for their antioxidant effects. The researchers incorporated various polyphenols (p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, gentisic acid, vitexin, schaftoside, etc.) into a water-in-oil emulsion containing 5% squalane, then analysed their diffusion according to Fick’s law.

The results showed that the polyphenols permeated the skin with initial permeability coefficients ranging from 6.0 to 8.0 × 10⁻³ cm²/h. The addition of squalane slightly lowered these coefficients (to between 4.1 and 5.9 × 10⁻³ cm²/h), indicating not a reduction in efficacy but a enhanced retention of actives within the skin. In other words, squalane slows the outward diffusion of polyphenols, prolonging their residence time in the cutaneous layers. Histological observations conducted by the scientists furthermore confirmed a more pronounced and enduring accumulation of polyphenols in the skin in the presence of squalane.

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• CORK M. J. & al. The effect of an emollient containing urea, ceramide NP, and lactate on skin barrier structure and function in older people with dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2016).

• COSTA P. & al. Effect of squalane-based emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: Ex vivo skin study. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces (2022).

• GHOLAP A. & al. Daily use of a bakuchiol and squalane-containing face serum impacts skin esthetics. CosmoDerma (2023).

• TADINI G. & al. Basic emollients for xerosis cutis not associated with atopic dermatitis: A review of clinical studies. International Journal of Dermatology (2025).