Everything you need to know about squalane.

Squalane is a vegetable lipid derived from squalene, a substance naturally found in certain plants as well as in humans. Indeed, human sebum contains approximately 15% squalene.

The characterisation of squalene dates back to the beginning of the 20th century. Tsujimoto first isolated this molecule from theshark liver oil, hence the name he attributed to it.

Nevertheless, sharks are listed on the red list of endangered species and the European Union prohibits their capture. Therefore, nowadays, the squalane present in skincare products is of plant origin. It can be extracted from sugarcane, wheat germ, palm trees, as well as olives.

From a chemical perspective, squalane is a branched hydrocarbon with the raw formula C30H62. It is a hydrogenated version of squalene. Unlike squalene, squalane is a so-called saturated molecule: it does not contain a double bond and cannot be degraded by reacting with oxygen.

Squalane is a non-greasy oil with a dry touch that quickly penetrates the epidermis. It is often referred to as an active emollient. Not only does it soften the skin, but it also provides it with several benefits.

• It prevents the epidermis from dehydration. Its biomimetic structure with sebum allows the repair of the hydrolipidic film, thereby strengthening the skin's barrier function and preventing the body's water from evaporating. The skin remains hydrated for longer and the feelings of tightness characteristic of dry skin are reduced.

• It stimulates cellular renewal enabling the refinement of skin texture and unclogging of pores, thus preventing the appearance of blemishes.

• It reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improves skin elasticity.
  

When applied to hair, squalane provides a thermal protection and strengthens the hair. It also protects them from external aggressions by forming a soft film on the surface. Regarding the scalp, squalane strengthens the skin barrier thus fighting against dehydration, thereby preventing the onset of itching and dandruff.

Squalane is a dry oil non-comedogenic ; it is suitable for all skin types but remains particularlywell-suited to dry skin.

There are no contraindications to the cosmetic use of squalane, it can be used without risk by children as well as pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.

This vegetable oil is stable against oxidation. However, it is still best preserved when kept cool and out of direct light.

When applied topically, squalane is found in creams, scrubs, oily serums, massage oils, and non-greasy dry body oils. In terms of hair care, this emollient can be found in restorative serums, protective shampoos and conditioners, as well as balms and masks.

Typology has developed several galenic formulations containing this multifunctional ingredient. For the face, the following treatments are enriched with olive squalane:

• The regenerating facial scrub gently exfoliates and unclogs pores. This gel transforms into an exfoliating oil under the effect of massage, then into a milk upon contact with water. Containing essential oils, it should not be used by pregnant women.

• Thehydrating botanical blend with papyrus is a night serum that helps to restore skin hydration and promote cellular regeneration.

• Thetightening botanical blendwith nopal is a night serum that helps to firm the skin through the toning and regenerating actions of 7 botanical extracts, including immortelle essential oil.

• The nourishing face cream formulated with hyaluronic acid and shea butter is a treatment enriched with lipid-replenishing and moisturising active ingredients to restore skin suppleness and reduce feelings of tightness.

• The nourishing serum squalane 100% is a treatment recommended for dry skin, with the aim of reducing feelings of tightness and minimising dehydration fine lines.

• Thetinted serumsare enriched withVitamin Cfor a radiant complexion and withaloe verato hydrate the skin. They provide light coverage and even out the skin tone. Moreover, these 2-in-1 products exclude fragrance, nanoparticles, and silicones that often feature in the formulation of traditional foundations and can promote the appearance of blemishes. Each tinted serum can match a wide spectrum of skin tones. The six shades of our serums have been developed according to the Fitzpatrick phototype scale.

With regards to the body, the following treatments contain plant-derived squalane:

• Therelipidating shower oil Vitamin E+F 2.5% + Bitter Almond Extract is a treatmentthat provides antioxidant benefits, restoring suppleness to the epidermis and reducing feelings of tightness, while delicately scenting the skin with a light almond fragrance.

• The nourishing body cream restores the lipid barrier, reduces feelings of tightness and protects the skin from external aggressions.

Finally, for hair, the following formulas also contain olive squalane:

• Thedry hair oil enriched with acai and hibiscus oil strengthens, nourishes and protects the hair fibre without weighing down the hair. It restores shine and softness to the hair.

• Therich hair oil with pequi and argan oil nourishes and restructures the hair fibre to protect it from heat. The hair becomes soft, shiny and manageable.

• The Nutrition Shampoo Complex of 1% Biolipids + Camellia Oilrepairs and deeply nourishes the hair fibre, smooths and fills in the hair scales. This shampoo hydrates and soothes the scalp without weighing down the hair. Containing a very low concentration of Ho Wood essential oil, it has no contraindications and can be used by pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.

• ALLISON A. C. Squalene and squalane emulsions as adjuvants. Methods 19 (1999).

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).