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Which colour corrector should be used to conceal a blemish?

Spots are not solely the burden of teenagers, and it's not uncommon to have a few in adulthood. While waiting for them to disappear, it is possible to conceal them with makeup, particularly with a complexion corrector. Which colour should you choose? How should the corrector be applied to achieve an even complexion? Here are all our tips.

Summary
Published February 29, 2024, updated on March 25, 2024, by Pauline, Head of Scientific Communication — 6 min read

The various types of spots.

The appearance of spots on the face usually indicates an acne flare-up, a very common skin disease. Indeed, while people suffering from acne may sometimes feel alone with this dermatosis, it is important to emphasise that acne is the primary reason for consultation with a dermatologist and it is estimated that about 80% of teenagers and 25% of adults are affected by this disease. The origin of spots can be varied : hormonal during adolescence and in adult women, but also environmental. Stress, a diet high in sugar, pollution or even certain non-adapted cosmetic products can also be involved. There are different types of spots, which it is useful to learn to distinguish in order to better conceal them.

  • White spots.

    The emergence of white spots, or closed comedones, represents the initial stage of acne. These blemishes form when the skin's pores become blocked due to an excess of sebum or an accumulation of dead cells. This blockage prevents the sebum from being expelled and its build-up results in a small white bump on the skin's surface.

  • Blackheads.

    When the comedone opens, the oxygen in the air oxidises the sebum plug and the dead cells, leading to the browning of the spot: the blackhead then appears. Contrary to popular belief, open comedones do not indicate the presence of dirt on the skin's surface.

  • The papules.

    When the accumulation of sebum persists or the hair follicle is colonised by the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes, a microorganism that feeds on the triglycerides present in the sebum, the spot becomes inflamed and turns red. The diameter of these spots is larger than that of comedones (≈ 5 mm) and they can be painful to touch.

  • Pustules.

    Larger than papules, red and sensitive, pustules have a white head filled with pus. The presence of pustules indicates a more severe and widespread inflammation and an imbalance in the microbial flora.

  • The nodules.

    In advanced stages of acne, nodules can occur on the skin. These spots are very painful and correspond to large papules that appear when the pressure is too high on the pore walls and the infection penetrates deeper into the skin.

If your acne is persistent, worsening, or it's affecting your mood, consult a dermatologist. With the right treatment, you could see your skin improve within a few weeks.

Which concealer should one choose to camouflage a blemish?

Tone correctors are handy cosmetic products for concealing minor pigmentation flaws. They come in various colours, catering to different issues: redness, dark circles, dull complexion... And small spots! Indeed, contrary to popular belief, makeup and acne are not necessarily incompatible. The value of correctors lies in the use of colours complementary to pigmentation irregularities. In fact, two complementary colours cancel each other out. As for spots, the camouflage technique varies slightly depending on their type. In all cases, it is important to choose a non-comedogenic product, which will not worsen your acne.

It is generally recommended to use a green concealer to camouflage spots. Indeed, this product works well in the case of red spots, due to the complementarity between the colour red and the colour green. A small dab on the spot is enough. Then, blend the product using a sponge or gently tap with your fingers. Your skin will then appear more soothed. For complete camouflage, it may be necessary to apply a traditional skin-tone concealer, such as an under-eye concealer, or a foundation over the green concealer.

Product Recommendation : To conceal your red spots, you can use the green concealer from Typology. In addition to having an immediate effect on redness, it reduces inflammation due to its richness in niacinamide and green algae extract, which are anti-inflammatory agents.

When it comes to spots with a small white head, they are often more challenging to conceal. However, orange concealers can partially mask them. Once again, proceed with moderation to avoid any caked-on effect and apply a foundation over it for a more even and uniform complexion. Lastly, regarding blackheads, it depends on your skin colour. If you have fair skin, we recommend starting with a yellow concealer, which will lighten the spot's shade before camouflaging it with a concealer or foundation suited to your skin tone. If you have dark skin, an orange concealer will be more suitable and provide a more natural finish.

Important : After using a complexion corrector in the morning or any other makeup product, it is essential to thoroughly remove your makeup. This universal rule is even more applicable when dealing with acne as the build-up of particles in the pores exacerbates skin inflammation. For a deep cleanse of your skin, we recommend opting for a double-cleansing routine in the evening.

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