Does makeup worsen acne?

The term "comedogenic" originates from the word "comedones" and refers to the property of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic product to block the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for the production of sebum. This blockage prevents the natural evacuation of sebum, which tends to cause various skin problems, such as acne which manifests as persistent white spots or swollen, painful red spots.

The concept of comedogenicity in a makeup product is particularly important for individuals with a combination to oily skin type or those suffering from blemish-prone skin, as they are more likely to develop comedones following the use of a comedogenic product. Therefore, these skin types would greatly benefit from choosing a non-comedogenic cosmetic. In essence, a non-comedogenic skincare product is simply a product devoid of comedogenic substances.

But how can I determine if my makeup, and more specifically my complexion formulas, are comedogenic?

A number of criteria need to be taken into account:

• Check the I.N.C.I. list of your beauty products to identify comedogenic ingredients.

• Although it's not a guarantee, it is advisable touse products labelled with terms such as "non-comedogenic", "non-acnegenic", "does not clog pores" or "does not cause skin breakouts".

• Consider the tolerance level of your skin, as everyone's skin is different and reacts differently to the product. For instance, products labelled as non-comedogenic can clog pores in some individuals, and vice versa.

The concept of comedogenicity is measured on a scale. Ingredients are ranked from 0 to 5 based on their comedogenic effect, where a score of 0 means that no comedones have developed, thus the pores are not blocked, and a score of 5 indicates a high likelihood of causing comedones. The comedogenicity index of an ingredient is based, among other things, on its rate of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and its vulnerability to oxidation. Any ingredient that has scored 2 or less is considered non-comedogenic. Here is a list of ingredients to avoid, incompatible with oily or acne-prone skin, which already have problems and blocked pores:

• The animal waxes: Beeswax (cire d’abeille) and Lanolin (lanoline);

• Some mineral oils and waxes derived from hydrocarbons: Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin Wax, etc... ;

• Some vegetable oils and butters: Triticum Vulgare or Wheat Germ Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan Oil), Persea Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Coco Nucifera or Coconut Butter, Cocoa Butter or Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa Butter), Butyspermum Parkii or Shea Butter, Rosa Canina or Rosehip Oil, Castor Oil, etc;

• Some fatty esters : particularly derivatives of stearic and oleic acids or even isopropyl myristate, the unsaponifiables, squalanes and squalenes, etc...

• Silicones : frequently found in conventional foundations due to the smooth texture with a non-greasy finish they provide , these polymers are generally very occlusive. Double-check the ingredients of your products and bear in mind that silicone can also be listed as dimethicone (or anything ending in 'cone') in the ingredient list. Be aware, certain silicones like cyclomethicone (a blend of silicones D4, D5 and D6 in varying proportions) are recognised endocrine disruptors .

It should be noted: certain ingredients such as alcohol are not comedogenic but are particularly drying for the skin. They are found in foundations because alcohol derivatives improve the deposit of pigments on the skin. However, they should also be avoided in makeup products for acne-prone skin as they can exacerbate micro-lesions and also trigger a reactive overproduction of sebum.

Acne-prone skin can be made up, but under certain conditions. Applying makeup to acne-prone skin requires the adoption of an appropriate beauty routine that must adhere to several essential rules.

• Cleaning one's skin on a daily basis.

  If you suffer from acne, we recommend washing your skin with a gentle cleanser that respects the skin's balance (alcohol-free, fragrance-free...). Otherwise, the skin will react by producing more sebum. You can use our balancing wash care with nettle, handcrafted in France and 100% natural. Cold saponified, it consists of eucalyptus globulus essential oil and nettle powder.

  Alternatively, you can apply ourpurifying cleansing gel. Enriched with purifying active ingredients such as zinc PCA, this cleansing gel sanitises the skin, regulates sebum production and limits the development of blemishes. You can then applythepeppermint hydrosol to rebalance the skin's pH. It's worth noting, for oily skin, cleansing with a washing gel can be done only in the evening to avoid stimulating sebum production. In the morning, simply apply the hydrosol to sanitise your skin.

• Cleansing the skin every evening.

  When suffering from acne, it is even more crucial not to skip the makeup removal process! For instance, you can apply our makeup removal oil directly onto your face until all makeup has completely disappeared, and complement this action with the micellar water containing 7 ingredients.

• Hydrating one's skin with suitable skincare treatments.

  A common misconception is to believe thatoily skindoes not require hydration. The fact that it produces excess sebum (reactive hyperseborrhea) would suggest not to add more with the application of a moisturising product, thinking that this could be counter-intuitive. Even if it seems surprising, oily skin can also suffer fromdehydrationwith consequences on the appearance and feel of the skin: tightness, irritations, redness...

  If you are seeking a daily care product to hydrate your oily skin, we recommend the purifying face cream with its light texture, which absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy or sticky residue. Thanks to the zinc PCA contained in this cream, it allows you to hydrate your skin without clogging the pores, while limiting the appearance of blemishes. Endowed with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, this mineral acts against the proliferation of Propionobacterium acnes and fights against the inflammatory reaction. Furthermore, its formulation guarantees sebum control thanks to the absorbing powers of bamboo extract and the sebum-regulating properties of zinc.

• Maintaining the hygiene of one's makeup tools.

  Over time, brushes can accumulate dust and bacteria. This is especially true when they are stored in a humid environment such as the bathroom. Therefore, if your brushes are not cleaned regularly, the dust and bacteria are deposited directly onto your skin, clogging the pores and potentially causing the appearance of blemishes such as acne spots or blackheads.

  The brushes used for foundation, under-eye treatments, and blush, should be cleaned at least once a week, as they can become breeding grounds for bacterial proliferation. Also, if you apply makeup every day, don't forget to wash them after each use, or at least several times a week.

• Always apply a complexion product with clean fingers.

  If you prefer to apply a complexion product using your hands, they must be cleaned beforehand. We advise you to take a small amount of the complexion product in question on your clean finger and lightly dab your face, to avoid a mask-like effect.