What does the formula of an eyebrow gel contain?

Eyebrow gels are cosmetic products primarily designed to define and set the eyebrows, providing them with a well-groomed appearance throughout the day. They are generally appreciated for their ease of use and the immediate aesthetic enhancement they bring to the eyebrows. Depending on their colour, eyebrow gels can intensify the gaze or deliver a very natural yet sophisticated result. These effects are made possible by the various compounds they contain:

• Binding agents.

  Fixative agents form the foundation of an eyebrow gel. Their role is to keep the hairs in place and ensure long-lasting hold. These ingredients form a light film around the hairs, setting them without a sticky or rigid effect. Among the most common fixative agents, we find polymers, which are synthetic substances, and waxes, such as beeswax (Cera Alba) and carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax). These are particularly effective for tinted eyebrow gels as they help to maintain the colour while setting the hairs.

• Pigments.

  In tinted eyebrow gels, the colouring plays a pivotal role. It allows to intensify the natural shade of the eyebrows, slightly adjust it or visually fill in the sparsely populated areas. The pigments can be identified by their INCI name starting with the letters "CI" for Colour Index: CI 77XXX. The main pigments used to formulate tinted eyebrow gels are mineral and organic pigments. Among the former, red iron oxides (CI 77491), yellow (CI 77492) and black (CI 77499) are particularly popular due to their stability and their ability to offer a wide range of shades, ranging from light chestnut to intense black.

  Synthetic pigments, on the other hand, allow for more specific and intense colours, complementing the range of natural shades. For instance, carbon black (CI 77266) is a pigment often used for intense black eyebrow gels as its shade is deeper than that of black iron oxide (CI 77499). However, it is less stable under UV light and its intensity may fade over time.

• Thickening agents.

  Some eyebrow gels contain fibres or thickening agents that allow them to add volume to the eyebrow line. By adhering to the natural hairs, these microfibres create the illusion of fuller eyebrows. The main thickening agents found in eyebrow gels are nylon fibres (Nylon-12), xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum), and plant gums, such as acacia gum (Acacia Senegal Gum).

• Texturising agents.

  Eyebrow gels also contain texturising agents that allow for a pleasant consistency upon application and a smooth, natural result on the eyebrows. These ingredients also help to maintain the suppleness and flexibility of the hairs and prevent them from becoming stiff. They also contribute to providing hold to the eyebrows. Among the texturising agents frequently found in eyebrow gels, we can mention dimethicone (Dimethicone), a form of silicone that forms a protective and enveloping barrier on the eyebrows.

• Preservatives.

  Like all cosmetic products, eyebrow gels require preservatives, such as Phenoxyethanol or Ethylhexylglycerin, to prevent the growth of bacteria and ensure proper preservation. They also often incorporate antioxidants, such as Vitamin E (Tocopherol) or Glycyrrhizic Acid, which help to extend the product's lifespan and prevent its degradation when exposed to air.

• Active ingredients.

  Some eyebrow gel formulas do more than just shape and set the eyebrows: they provide care, protect them and prevent their breakage and loss. Indeed, certain peptides found in eyebrow gels, such as pea peptides (Pisum Sativum (Pea) Peptide), can act directly at the level of the hair follicles and promote better hair anchoring. Some products also contain vegetable oils, which, by nourishing the eyebrows, make them stronger, more resilient and shinier.

• Solvents.

  The various ingredients mentioned above are dissolved in a solvent. Essential for achieving a fluid consistency, solvents also help to stabilise the formula and ensure a good distribution of pigments and fixing agents. The main solvent used to formulate eyebrow gels is water (Aqua/Water). In quick-drying formulas, alcohol is sometimes added, while it's more likely to be isododecane (Isododecane) in long-lasting or water-resistant (waterproof) eyebrow gels. Finally, butylene glycol (Butylene Glycol) is sometimes found in eyebrow gels due to its humectant properties, which are useful to prevent the product from becoming too dry or crumbly throughout the day.