Which cleanser should be used for sensitive skin?

To be distinguished from sensitised skin, a sensitive skin is a skin type that reacts excessively to various external aggressions, particularly allergens. The main manifestations of sensitive skin include frequent redness, irritations, tingling, and tightness. This skin condition is predominantly dependent on genetic factors, although several external elements can also play a role, such as pollution, sun exposure, stress, or the hardness of water. The skin then sends several signals to indicate its discomfort.

From a biochemical perspective, the level of corneocytes is reduced in individuals with sensitive skin, leading to enhanced transcutaneous penetration of water-soluble chemicals. To clarify, corneocytes are the constituent cells of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis that plays a protective barrier role. Another interesting point: the synthesis of filaggrin, a protein of the epithelium involved in its protection, is reduced in those with sensitive skin. Lastly, it appears that these individuals have an increased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, chemical mediators partly responsible for the observed irritations and redness.

This sensitivity can affect dry, normal, combination, and oily skin types, even though dry skin is more prone to it.

When one has sensitive skin, it is advisable to opt for gentle, soothing, hydrating, and nourishing treatments. Formulas containing panthenol, bisabolol, oat, glycerine, or ceramides are particularly beneficial for sensitive skin. They help to limit transepidermal water loss, while strengthening the skin barrier and soothing the skin. Conversely, certain ingredients should be avoided. Sulfates, particularly the sodium lauryl sulfate and the sodium laureth sulfate, have a high detergent power and can weaken the skin. Alcohols and alcohol derivatives, often drying, as well as fragrances should also be avoided as they can increase skin sensitivity.

Which cleanser texture should be preferred when one has sensitive skin?

Sensitive skin generally tolerates creamy and enveloping textures better, which cleanse without disrupting the hydrolipidic film. Cleansing milks, washing creams or even superfatted soaps are particularly suitable as they often contain hydrating and soothing agents, such as glycerine or oats. Micellar waters, provided they do not contain irritating surfactants, are also an interesting alternative. If you have sensitive skin, it is however advised to rinse the micellar water after application. Although this step is not always necessary, it helps to remove any residue of surfactants, even mild ones, and minimise the risk of irritation. As for cleansing gels, often associated with oily skin, they are not systematically to be excluded. A sulfate-free formula, enriched with hydrating and soothing agents, may be suitable if the texture remains fluid and not overly foaming.

The key is to choose a cleanser that does not disrupt the skin's hydrolipidic film.

The significance of the pH level of a cleanser in maintaining the balance of sensitive skin.

Another important but often overlooked selection criterion is the pH of the cleanser. As a reminder, the skin has a pH ranging between 4.5 and 5.5. This natural acidity allows it to protect against pathogens and maintain its barrier function. A recurring issue with facial cleansers is a too high pH, close to that of soap (around 9-10), which can disrupt the skin microbiota and promote inflammatory reactions. Therefore, it is recommended to opt for a cleanser formulated at the physiological pH of the skin, like a dermatological bar, allowing for effective yet gentle epidermis cleansing.

Beyond the product itself, the method of application is crucial in protecting sensitive skin. When cleansing your face, do so gently, without scrubbing, and favour rinsing with lukewarm water to avoid dissolving the skin's protective lipids.

Note: At Typology, we offer a wide range of cleansers, some of which have been specifically formulated for sensitive skin.

• LANE M. & al. A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016).

• STANDER S. & al. Sensitive skin. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2016).

• DRAELOS Z. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017).