When to use a conditioner?

Recommended for all hair types, the conditioner is a hair care product typically composed of anti-static agents, which has five main functions:

• replenish a portion of the moisture removed by the shampoo;

• Reduce the friction between hair strands to make them easier to brush after showering;

• Restore the acidic pH of the hair in order to tighten the cuticle layer, which is altered by shampoo that has a neutral pH;

• Assist the hair in recovering from heat-induced damage, including damage caused by various hairstyling devices (hairdryers, curling irons, heated brushes, etc.);

• Coating the hair shaft with a protective film in order to enhance shine, reduce the risk of breakage, temporarily seal split ends, and make the hair less prone to damage.

The general recommendation is initially to cleanse the scalp and hair roots with a shampoo, before proceeding with the application of a conditioner on the lengths and ends. However, a new hair washing practice, called "reverse shampooing", suggests applying the conditioner before the shampoo. This new method would be particularly beneficial for fine or oily hair, where the conditioner would weigh down, flatten and make the hair greasier. To reap the benefits of the "reverse washing" method, it must be correctly performed: that is, not rinsing the conditioner before the shampoo.

Thus, by reversing the traditional order, the conditioner would cover the hair shaft, protecting the lengths from the stripping and drying effects of the ingredients contained in the shampoo. However, no scientific study supports the safety and effectiveness of this new hair washing order, nor the frequency with which this method should be used. But won't changing the order of hair product application instead remove the protective layer created by the conditioner during the shampoo wash?

Some experts advise using the "reverse washing" method only once a week and for the rest of the time, it is preferable to carry out a traditional wash, that is, shampooing first followed always by the conditioner.

Of the same kind, there also exists a new trend known as "co-washing", which involves washing the hair with a conditioner or a cleansing conditioner. Aimed at dry, brittle, curly and textured hair, "co-washing" is said to prevent breakage by reducing the dryness that follows cleansing. Although this alternative is gentle on the hair, it can lead to a possible build-up of non-soluble residues under the cuticle scales, in addition to the fact that there is no scientific data to prove its effectiveness.

Due to the low level of cleanliness, it is recommended to combine "co-washing" with a standard shampoo every two weeks.

How often should you use a conditioner?

Each time you shampoo, you must then apply a conditioner.

Indeed, when you wash your scalp to rid it of dirt and impurities, the shampoo also removes the sebum that protects the lengths from damage. Consequently, this will leave the hair dry, coarse, dull, and difficult to style.

Furthermore, the alkaline pH of certain shampoos can increase the negative electrical charge on the surface of the hair fibre, thereby increasing friction between strands, which could damage the cuticle and break the fibre. This is why it is important to consistently apply a conditioner.

However, the frequency at which you wash your hair and apply conditioner depends on your hair needs. Individuals whose hair tends to become oily may want to wash it more often than those whose hair tends to be dry.

The frequency of application also depends on the type of conditioner chosen. For instance, deep conditioning treatments, which are intended to be left on the hair for a longer period (20 to 30 minutes), are generally recommended to be applied once a week.