What is a conditioner typically composed of?

Although available in many forms, conditioners are most commonly oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, which is a dispersion of oil droplets (about 10% of the final formulation) in an aqueous base (mineral water or hydrosol). They have been designed to deposit a mixture of macromolecules (synthetic polymers, cationic polyelectrolytes, proteins, etc.) and surfactants on the surface of hair fibres to partially cover the damaged areas appearing in the outermost region of the hair fibres, thereby reducing friction between the fibres, detangling the hair, minimising frizz and allowing for gentler brushing or combing. As a result, they contain various categories of ingredients, with a base that is common to all conditioners.

Cationic surfactants.

Washing habits, excessive or repeated chemical treatments... are factors that can increase the number of negative charges in hair fibres. However, conditioners contain cationic surfactants, characterised by a positively charged hydrophilic end. The positive charge provided by the surfactant will thus strongly bind to the surface of the negatively charged damaged hair for neutralisation. By coating the hair strand in this way, this process helps to minimise frizz, soften the hair and make it easier to style.

In addition to cationic surfactants, the formula of our conditioner also contains non-ionic surfactants, which carry no electrical charge. They also contribute to enhancing the anti-static properties of the hair care product.

Conditioning agents.

Oils, waxes, emollients, fatty acid esters, butters, cationic polymers or hydrolysed proteins (amino acids), these substances can be present in a conditioner to provide substance and structure to the hair, making it softer and more flexible. Indeed, they will adhere to the keratin structure of the hair fibres and help to flatten the cuticle scales against each other in order to restore the fibre's hydrophobicity and protect it from abrasive actions until the next shampoo. However, depending on their ability to penetrate the hair fibre, conditioning agents can either reach the surface of the cuticle (> 1000 Da), or the inner part of the cortex (< 1000 Da). This process thus strengthens the hair fibre and repairs existing damage. By attaching to the surface of the hair, they can even enhance the shine of the hair fibre by reflecting light.

Note : As hydrolysed amino acids carry a positive charge, they are attracted to the negative charge of damaged hair, thereby neutralising the electrical charges and reducing frizz and friction. Our resurfacing conditioner is notably enriched with a duo of amino acids, arginine and lysine.

Thickening agents.

Different consistency stabilisers can also be included in the formulation of a conditioner. Carbomer, gums (sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, etc.), fatty alcohols (behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), waxes (carnauba wax, paraffin wax, etc.)... their role is to increase the viscosity of formulations to provide a consistent texture to conditioners, to add volume to the emulsion and to allow for better product distribution on the hair. In some cases, these thickeners can also be used for conditioning purposes.

Stabilising agents.

Of course, any conditioner formulation must contain stabilising agents to ensure that the product remains safe, stable, and sellable throughout its shelf life, such as:

• of acidity regulators that maintain the pH of the conditioner close to 3.5, suitable for that of the hair, and prevent the alkalinisation of the hair, as a low pH protonates the amino acids of keratin. Indeed, hydrogen ions (H+) give the hair a positive charge and create more hydrogen bonds between the keratin scales to tighten them, which alters the hair structure making it more compact. Organic acids, such as citric acid and lactic acid, are generally used to adjust the pH.

• of preservatives that protect the product from decomposition by microorganisms during its shelf life, whether before or after opening. Typical preservatives in conditioners are sodium benzoate, parabens, DMDM hydantoin, or methylisothiazolinone (MIT).

Some conditioners utilise essential oils to scent the formula as well as the hair, typically not exceeding 1%.

Active ingredients.

A conditioner is essentially an emulsion with cationic surfactants. It may also contain a care component with additional properties, particularly to help moisturise, strengthen and make hair easier to style. Many conditioners may, for example, contain humectant compounds, whose purpose is to attract and retain moisture in the hair. On the market, the humectant compounds potentially present in a conditioner are glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or even pentylene glycol. However, these ingredients are not very effective in quick-rinse products, as they are not in contact with the hair strand long enough to have a lasting effect.

Comprising 98% naturally derived ingredients, our resurfacing conditioner plays a role in maintaining the health, shine, and softness of hair. Arginine, squalane, and lysine help to restructure the hair to combat hair issues such as dehydration, frizz, and damage. Whether you have dry, curly, coloured, fine, frizzy, or damaged hair, this conditioner is suitable for all hair types.