What is "Camellia Japonica Seed Oil" and what is its utility?

The tsubaki, also known as the Japanese rose, is a shrub native to the Far East and belongs to the Theaceae family. Discovered in Japan at the end of the 17th century by Dr. Engelbert KAEMPFER, who was attached to the Dutch East India Company, it was Linnaeus who scientifically described it at the beginning of the 18th century. The genus Camellia was born; today it includes no less than 38,000 varieties and cultivars recorded in a register maintained by Australia.

The Japanese camellia is the source of the discovery of green tea approximately 5,000 years ago in China by Emperor SHENNONG. The invigorating and refreshing effect, as well as the medicinal virtues of this plant, have contributed to its increasingly widespread use, particularly by Buddhist monks and the Chinese upper class.

It was not until the early 1600s that tea began to be imported into Europe via the Dutch East India Company, which held a monopoly on European trade with Asia. Due to its high price, it was unaffordable for the working classes and only the upper classes consumed it. Pharmacists (apothecaries) sold it in their dispensaries as a medicinal plant.

Labelled as "Camellia Japonica Seed Oil" according to the I.N.C.I. nomenclature, tsubaki vegetable oil is obtained by first cold pressing of camellia seeds. It is rich in fatty acids essential such as linoleic acid (omega-6) , oleic acid (omega-9), stearic acid and palmitic acid.

As a reminder, oleic acid is the most abundant long-chain monounsaturated fatty acid in our body.Highly nourishing for the skin, it makes it more supple and softer, but also more radiant.

The vegetable oil of tsubaki, also known as Japanese camellia vegetable oil, also contains a natural antioxidant, the vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, as well as squalene, a natural component of human sebum.

In terms of its organoleptic properties, thetsubaki vegetable oil is a light, oily liquid of a golden yellow colour with a soft and soothing scent. Highly stable against oxidation, it should be stored in a cool place, protected from moisture and light in an amber bottle.

Rich in omega-6 and omega-9, it providesnourishment and elasticity to the skin, and prevents dehydration bystrengthening the barrier function of the epidermis. The hydrolipidic film improves the resistance of the horny layer against external aggressions and limits insensible water loss. TheJapanese camellia vegetable oil is thus qualified asrelipidating, it is recommended for taking care ofdry and dehydrated skin.

Furthermore, this oil is very gentle upon application, providing a comforting sensation to the skin and giving it a velvety touch. Its texture is dry and it has a low comedogenicity index, meaning it does not clog pores and quickly penetrates through the skin.

Finally, in 2007, researchers demonstrated thestimulating activity on the production of type I collagen of tsubaki vegetable oil. As a reminder, type I collagen is the main component of the dermis, and the quantity and quality of this extracellular protein are primarily linked to skin ageing. Tsubaki oil thus also constitutes a tightening treatment.

We have incorporated tsubaki oil into two firming treatments aimed at mature skin due to its softening virtues. These are the firming face cream and the firming body serum. These two treatments also contain retinol (or vitamin A), a powerful tensing active with recognised antioxidant power.

• JUNG E. & al. Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier function. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2007).

• ENDO Y. & al. Lipid characteristics of Camellia seed oil. Journal of Oleo Science (2019).