What are the characteristics of DE(+) skin?

Skin ageing: BEGINNER ("Débutant" in French)

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

When the skin is classified as “D”, this indicates that the initial mechanisms associated with cutaneous ageing are beginning to take hold, even though the visible signs remain subtle. At this stage, it is not advanced ageing, but rather a gradual slowing of the skin’s biological functions, subtly altering its behaviour and its ability to maintain equilibrium. In this early phase, several processes occur simultaneously:

• A progressive decline in fibroblast activity, which reduces the production of collagen and elastin.

• A reduction in the ability of keratinocytes, the skin’s primary cells, to regenerate, leading to a less smooth epidermis and less homogeneous.

• A less efficientcellular repair capacity, especially at night, meaning that daytime assaults (UV, pollution, friction) more readily leave a biological imprint.

These internal changes do not always lead to wrinkles visible to the eye, but they often manifest as uneven radiance, skin becoming more reactive to environmental stress and a slight loss of comfort, particularly among DE(+) individuals who are exposed to various oxidative factors.

The “D” classification therefore marks the stage at which the skin begins to show that its defence and regeneration mechanisms are no longer functioning at full capacity, without, however, being profoundly altered.

When skin is classified as “E”, it indicates that it resides in an environment where the oxidative stress is highly prevalent and intense enough to disrupt its biological equilibrium on a daily basis. These factors generate reactive oxygen species in the skin, which can attack lipids, proteins and the DNA of skin cells. Note that we refer to oxidative stress when the exposure to oxidising factors exceeds the skin’s capacity to neutralise free radicals of the skin.

The main sources of oxidative stress are well known: UV rays, air pollution, tobacco, alcohol, fatigue… Exposed skin does not always respond with a redness or an immediate sensation of discomfort: in most cases, the impact is invisible at first, but gradually manifests as a loss of radiance and the progressive onset of signs of ageing.

Classification “E” thus highlights skin undergoing oxidation.

AE(+) skin is characterised by a production of sebum that is elevated. This excessive secretion by the sebaceous glands is primarily physiological in origin, determined by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, certain medications, a diet high in fats and sugars, stress, etc.). Even though this skin type is well protected by a hydrolipidic film rich in lipids that covers the entire skin surface, this dysregulation in sebum production can nevertheless be problematic.

Indeed, AE(+) skin often appears shiny throughout the day and presents an increased risk of developing blemishes. As a reminder, these arise when the skin’s pores become blocked, often due to excess sebum. Furthermore, an overproduction of sebum can increase the size of the pores, which can also give rise to self-consciousness.

However, “+” skins have an advantage: very well protected by their hydrolipidic film, they are often less prone to premature ageing.

A DE(+) skin combines sensitivity to oxidative stress, early visible signs of ageing and elevated sebum production. The objective of the routine is therefore to provide antioxidant protection, manage skin shine and support its regeneration mechanisms.

In the morning, the priority is to stabilise sebum production while providing robust defence against oxidative factors. A gentle, non-stripping cleanser removes excess sebum produced overnight without disrupting the skin barrier. Next comes an antioxidant, like the vitamin C or resveratrol, which limits free radical damage and helps maintain skin radiance. A mattifying treatment, based on niacinamide or zinc, then works to even out skin tone and reduce shine without drying. The skincare routine is completed with a moisturising cream, to seal in hydration and prevent reactive hyperseborrhoea, and with a sunscreen protection, essential for minimising oxidative stress.

In the evening, the aim is to gently unclog the skin and support its repair processes that activate during the night. The double cleansing is ideal for DE(+) skin, as it provides thorough removal of accumulated sebum, pollutant particles and sunscreen filters without irritating the skin. Once the skin is completely clean, a firming active ingredient, such as the retinol or peptides, can then be used to improve skin texture and combat the earliest signs of ageing. Finally, a lightweight yet restorative cream helps to restore the skin barrier without weighing the skin down.