The ingredients to favour for optimising your tan.

The sunlight indeed brings benefits to the body, but it also has numerous undesirable effects, of varying severity (sunburn, pigmentation spots, acceleration of photoaging, skin conditions...). To protect against these inconveniences during sun exposure, melanocytes produce melanin, the pigment responsible for the brown colour of the skin.

This then migrates to the surface of the epidermis and colours it: this is tanning. This natural process allows the skin to resist the harmful effects of the sun's UV rays. Indeed, once synthesised, the melanin envelops the nucleus of the keratinocytes, the cells of the horny layer, where they form a filter that helps to protect the DNA from the mutagenic and carcinogenic effects of UV rays. This pigment is capable of absorbing about 50% of UVA and 85% of UVB reaching the skin. Melanin can also capture free radicals generated within the body by UV radiation, thus limiting the premature ageing of the skin.

Important : While the process of melanogenesis occurs to protect the skin from UV rays, it does not exempt the need to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen on areas of the body exposed to the sun, and to reapply every two hours.

To achieve a beautiful tan, cosmetic treatments can assist you, provided they contain the right active ingredients. Although not exhaustive, the list below gathers the main ingredients whose topical application promotes the attainment of a sun-kissed complexion.

• The carrot macerate.

  Thanks to its high content of vitamins A and carotenoids, this vegetable oil has a slight colour and gives the complexion a healthy glow. Moreover, the carrot macerate revives the radiance of dull skin and gives the skin a slight tan due to its stimulating action on melanin synthesis. Indeed, it has been shown that beta-carotene, which belongs to the carotenoid family, has an effect on melanogenesis, although the stage at which it acts has not been determined. Finally, the carrot macerate is an excellent antioxidant, helping to protect the skin against free radicals.

• Buriti oil.

  This oil is extracted through cold pressing of the pulp from the fruits of the buriti tree, a species native to the Amazon. Much like carrot macerate, theburiti oil has an orange hue and is rich in carotenoids, which are capable of stimulating the skin's melanin production. This ingredient also possesses antioxidant and photoprotective properties.

• The extract of carob pulp.

  This natural extract is rich in inositol, a molecule capable of intensifying and prolonging tanning. It particularly acts on the diacylglycerol/protein kinase C (DAG/PKC) biological pathway. This mechanism triggers a cascade of reactions, ultimately leading to theactivation of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis.

• Tyrosine.

  Tyrosine is a natural amino acid found in the body. It is a precursor to melanin, meaning it is converted into melanin under the action of an enzyme, specifically tyrosinase. This active ingredient thus has a beneficial effect on tanning and facilitates it.

• Specific peptides.

  In certain cosmetic treatments, often referred to as "tanning activators", we find peptides with the ability to boost melanin synthesis, such as acetylhexapeptide. However, the mechanism of action is not typically disclosed by the brands.

• The self-tanning ingredients.

  The molecules found in self-tanning products allow for a sun-kissed complexion without the need to expose oneself to the dangers of the sun. Among the most commonly used are the dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and erythrulose, sometimes used in combination. DHA is a plant-derived molecule capable of inducing a skin browning effect within 4 to 6 hours. It reacts with the amino acids in the stratum corneum of the epidermis through a Maillard reaction to form pigments, melanoidins, which are responsible for skin colouration. Erythrulose, on the other hand, is a sugar that acts similarly to DHA, but more slowly. It is often combined with DHA to achieve a more natural and even tan. Moreover, erythrulose has moisturising properties that counterbalance the drying power of DHA.

• HEARING V. & al. The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin. Photochemistry and Photobiology (2008).

• RICHTER K. & al. Oxidative stress in ageing human skin. Biomolecules (2015).

• LANERI S. & al. Nutricosmetics: A concise overview. Phytotherapy Research (2019).

• HEVERTS H. & al. Vitamin A in skin and hair: An update. Nutrients(2022).