Naturally Tanned, Thanks to Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and Erythrulose

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a carbohydrate monomer with the molecular formula C3H6O3. This molecule can be of synthetic or plant origin. Naturally occurring dihydroxyacetone is usually obtained through a biotechnological process in which glycerol from plants such as canola, corn or beets is fermented and bioconverted by bacteria.

DHA is now the most important active ingredient in self-tanning products. In the 1960s, however, this compound was not popular because it left an unnatural orange tone and streaky lines on the skin. It was not until the 1980s that it became popular, as when combined with Erythrulose, it produced a much more even and natural tanned complexion. Erythrulose is also a biotechnologically produced compound. This natural sugar is found in the cells of plants such as raspberries and beets.

So, the combination of these two compounds promotes a natural tan. In addition, erythrulose has moisturizing properties that counteract the drying effect of DHA.

When these tanning agents are applied to the skin, they react to form pigments called melanoidins. The tanning effect of the skin is the result of this reaction, which is called the Maillard reaction. The pigmentation of the skin appears within 2 to 6 hours after the application of the self-tanning care. However, this color gradually fades and completely disappears within 5 to 7 days. This phenomenon can be explained by the frequent renewal of the corneal layer (natural desquamation process).

Note: Although these two molecules act on skin cells in the same way, they do not react at the same rate. Thus, DHA tones the skin very quickly, while erythrulose acts slowly and gradually. It is also this balance between the reaction time of the two compounds that enhances a natural tan.