Should we stop using retinol in the summer?

The retinol is a type of retinoid that has quickly become a powerful, versatile active ingredient for a wide variety of skin issues. It is renowned for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, enhancing skin firmness and texture, and evening out irregular skin tone areas (brown spots). Despite its numerous skin benefits, its use is not without consequence. It can sometimes prove particularly irritating (retinoid dermatitis). Indeed, the "exfoliating" capabilities of retinol make the skin sensitive, as it promotes the renewal of skin cells. Consequently, most people using retinol will need to develop a tolerance over time.

There is a widespread belief about retinol that it should not be used during the summer. Some people are indeed apprehensive about continuing its use in the summer. On the contrary, it is possible to use it daily at any time of the year, even during the summer. This misinformation may stem from the fear of exacerbating one's skin when it is already irritated. Indeed, retinol can make the skin slightly sensitive to the sun, but this does not mean that you should stop using it during the summer months. Moreover, according to research, there is no evidence to support claims of photo-allergy or phototoxicity with retinol.

However, certain precautions must be taken to continue reaping its benefits without damaging the skin and without suffering from side effects.

• Adjust the frequency of use according to skin sensitivity: the risk of pigmentation can be an adverse effect of using retinol. Indeed, skins prone to melasma or dark phototypes, where irritations can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks, must adjust the application of retinol;

• Ensure to hydrate your skin immediately after: retinol can dry out the skin, cause irritations and redness, particularly during the first month of use until the skin develops a tolerance. It is thus generally recommended to apply a moisturising cream concurrently with the retinol to limit any potential dryness, flaking or sensitivity that may occur and improve the comfort of the skin;

• Pairing retinol with a broad-spectrum sunscreen: use retinol in conjunction with a sun protection of at least SPF 30, although daily application is essential regardless of your skincare routine. It will help to protect the skin from the effects of UV rays and limit the "risk of burning", while benefiting from the properties of retinol. For additional protection, it is also recommended to complement your sunscreen use with wearing a hat, avoiding intense sunlight hours, and seeking shade;

• Using retinol in the evening: it is not recommended to apply retinol before exposing oneself to the sun. Indeed, prolonged exposure to the sun can deactivate retinol to some extent, making them less effective. Evening use has more to do with the effectiveness of the formula than with the damage it can cause to your skin. Morning or evening, you will not be spared from irritations.

If you are starting on retinol, it is recommended to begin during the autumn months. In winter, dryness is typically the most challenging side effect of retinol to combat. During cold weather, dry wind and heaters can exacerbate this. That's why it's advised to increase the use of moisturising creams during this time of the year. Conversely, in summer, people are generally more sensitive to the sun, which necessitates diligent use of sun protection products and other sun safety measures.

• FU P. P. & al. Photodecomposition and phototoxicity of natural retinoids. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health (2005).

• BERGE C. A. & al. Facilitating facial retinization through barrier improvement. Cutis (2006).

• RUEDA M.-J. & al. Beneficial effect of a moisturizing cream as adjunctive treatment to oral isotretinoin or topical tretinoin in the management of acne. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2006).

• POTTS A. & al. The phototoxic and photoallergy potential of clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/ tretinoin 0.025% gel for facial acne: results of two single-center, evaluator-blinded, randomized, vehicle-controlled phase 1 studies in healthy volunteers. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2014).