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Self-tanning: What are the risks?

Many people desire to maintain a sun-kissed complexion throughout the year, without necessarily exposing themselves to the sun's rays. In this case, the application of a self-tanner is an excellent option. What are the risks associated with the use of this type of product? Find some answers in this article.

Summary
Published February 16, 2022, updated on October 2, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min read

Self-tanner: definition.

A self-tanner is a skincare product that allows one to achieve a sun-kissed complexion without exposure to potentially harmful UV rays from the sun (sunburn, acceleration of skin ageing, skin cancer...).

This product typically contains a self-tanning compound known as dihydroxyacetone (DHA). Whether synthetic or natural in origin, this tanning agent reacts upon contact with the amine functions carried by the amino acids in the upper layer of the skin, namely the dead cells of the stratum corneum. The browning effect on the skin results from this reaction, known as the Maillard reaction.

It should be noted that without reapplying a self-tanning product, the skin's tan gradually fades, disappearing completely within 5 to 7 days. This phenomenon can be explained by the frequent renewal of the stratum corneum (the natural process of skin shedding).

What are the risks of using self-tanning products?

The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has stated that DHA present in self-tanning products does not pose a health risk to the consumer at a maximum concentration of 10%. Furthermore, no scientific study has proven that DHA penetrates the skin's protective barriers. It is not contraindicated for pregnant women.

On the other hand, a self-tanner containing DHA can cause irritation if applied to sensitive areas of the body. That's why all body parts covered with mucous membranes should be free from self-tanner. Similarly, inhalation and ingestion of this type of skincare product are not recommended. Indeed, this can cause asthma as well as DNA damage and cancer risks.

Furthermore, due to the presence of DHA, the application of this type of product can dry out the skin and increase its sensitivity to the sun. It should be noted, this characteristic is often counterbalanced in self-tanning formulas by the presence of humectants such as glycerine and/or sugar derivatives.. To combat this potentially drying effect, ensure to hydrate your skin daily, morning and evening, both on the face and body. The face moisturising cream with 9 ingredients is enriched with hyaluronic acid and coconut oil; it's a minimalist formula that hydrates and nourishes the epidermis. Its light and non-greasy texture is suitable for dry, normal and combination skin, even sensitive ones. For the body, opt for the body moisturising cream with 10 ingredients, which hydrates all skin types, even sensitive ones.

Also, be aware that self-tanning does not equate to sun protection. Always remember to protect your skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to avoid the harmful effects of UV rays.

Sources

  • KOCHEVAR I.E. & al. Factors influencing sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone. British Journal of Dermatology (2003).

  • Opinion on Dihydroxyacetone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (2010).

  • CIRIMIMNA R. & al. Dihydroxyacetone: An updated insight into a significant bioproduct. ChemistryOpen (2018).

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