Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid with 9 carbon atoms. It is derived from cereals (wheat, rye and barley). It has excellent anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties, allowing it to fight against acne and rosacea problems. In pharmacies, it was first integrated in anti-acne products in the form of a cream in the early 1980s; it effectively inhibits the proliferation of pro-inflammatory bacteria, P.acnes and S.epidermidis.
Several studies were then conducted on the action and the benefits of azelaic acid on pigmentation spots. It has been shown that a daily topical application of a cream containing 20% azelaic acid is more effective than a cream formulated with 2% hydroquinone on patients with melasma. In addition, azelaic acid has no adverse effects, unlike hydroquinone, which has a bad odor, can irritate the skin, and can cause immune suppression.
What does azelaic acid do to your skin? The mode of action of azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation has been identified. Azelaic acid reduces the ability of melanocytes to produce melanin by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase and by regulating the activity of the enzyme thioredoxin reductase. In addition, it targets only pigment-laden or atypical melanocytes. Therefore, it does not interact with healthy cells. In addition, thanks to its antioxidant properties, azelaic acid protects the skin from free radicals responsible for the appearance of signs of aging, including dark spots.
Thus, in medicine, an azelaic acid products
are a relevant first-line solution
when one wants to fight effectively
against hyperpigmentation.