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Moment utilisation acide azélaïque.

When should azelaic acid be applied?

Azelaic acid, a compound derived from grains such as wheat, is relatively underutilised in skincare. However, this active ingredient is brimming with benefits for oily to combination (+) acne-prone skin. When should you use an azelaic acid skincare product and what practices should you adopt? Find our advice in this article.

Published on November 1, 2021, updated on March 25, 2026, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 2 min of reading

The properties of Azelaic Acid.

Azelaic acid belongs to the dicarboxylic acids group. In dermatology, it is recognised as an effective solution for combating acne and hyperpigmentation issues. Indeed, it possesses excellent antimicrobial properties that act against the proliferation of P.acnes, the bacteria responsible for inflammatory reactions in acne. Moreover, it regulates the keratinisation process, meaning it influences the cellular renewal of the epidermis, limiting the formation of dead cells that cause pore obstruction and the emergence of blackheads. On the skin's surface, it breaks down free fatty acid molecules, giving the skin a matte and unified appearance.

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When and how to use an azelaic acid treatment?

Azelaic acid is a gentler acid than AHA exfoliants such as glycolic acid or lactic acid. A skincare product containing azelaic acid typically causes very little irritation, even in the most sensitive individuals. For facial use, this active ingredient can be found in lotions, creams, serums, cleansing gels, and masks. A product containing it can be applied once or twice a day, in the morning and in the evening, as this substance does not cause photosensitivity.

Typology has developed the matifying serum with 10% azelaic acid. It is particularly suitable for combination to oily skin types. 3 or 4 drops of this treatment morning and evening on a previously cleansed and dried skin are enough to tighten the pores, refine the skin texture and mattify the complexion. We advise you to use this serum for at least four weeks to observe its effects.

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