Pracaxi oil, a comedogenic oil?

The concept of comedogenicity still has certain limitations. However, it remains interesting for studying the potential effects of a vegetable oil on the skin and its compatibility with other ingredients or cosmetic treatments. A vegetable oil is considered "comedogenic" when it has the ability to form an occlusive film on the skin's surface.

The application of oil can lead to a build-up of sebum in the skin pores and their blockage, subsequently resulting in the emergence of comedonal type imperfections. Therefore, for oily or acne-prone skin, the use of a comedogenic oil can exacerbate their condition.

The comedogenic potential of vegetable oils is assessed using the comedogenicity index, which is given on a scale ranging from 0 to 5. An index of 0 corresponds to a non-comedogenic ingredient, a ranking between 1 and 2 is associated with a slightly comedogenic ingredient, and, from 3 or more, the oil is said to be comedogenic.

As of today, no scientific study has been able to provide a comedogenicity index for pracaxi oil.

Nevertheless, certain parameters can be considered in the assessment of comedogenicity and could allow us to presume that of thepracaxi oil.

Criterion No. 1: The sensitivity of the oil to oxidation.

The oxidation of a vegetable oil can depend on exposure to heat, direct sunlight, the oxygen present in the air, an interaction with the container, or it could stem from a problem with the oil's preservation. When an oil is oxidised, it may exhibit a change in texture or a deterioration in its quality. The comedogenicity of a vegetable oil increases with its oxidation. The oxidative potential then defines the sensitivity to oxidation of vegetable oils.

What is the oxidation sensitivity of pracaxi oil?

Thepracaxi oil has a relatively rich composition of monounsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid (between 40 and 60%), and also contains various types of saturated fatty acids like behenic acid, stearic acid, and palmitic acid. These types of fatty acids only have a single or no double bond in their chemical structure, making them less sensitive to oxidation. However, pracaxi oil also contains antioxidant compounds, notably vitamin E and β-carotene, which have a protective action on the oil's components.

All these factors would suggest that pracaxi oil could exhibit good oxidation stability. However, caution is required as pracaxi oil also contains approximately 20% linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid. This type of fatty acid is more susceptible to oxidation due to the double bonds in its chemical structure.

Criterion No. 2: The speed of oil penetration.

The rate of penetration is influenced by the texture of the vegetable oil. Indeed, a thick vegetable oil is difficult to absorb at the skin level and has a more significant occlusive character, which is influenced by its composition. Monounsaturated fatty acids give the oil a greasier and thicker finish, unlike polyunsaturated fatty acids, which, thanks to their numerous double bonds, are more flexible, giving them a less dense texture.

What is the penetration rate of pracaxi oil?

Primarily containing oleic acid, pracaxi oil tends to penetrate the skin with some difficulty. It is more likely to remain on the skin's surface to protect and hydrate it by reinforcing the hydrolipidic film. However, its linoleic acid content could potentially enhance its absorption into the epidermis. Therefore, it is currently challenging to definitively conclude on the rate of pracaxi oil's penetration into the skin.

Criterion No. 3: The quality of the vegetable oil.

Generally, the quality of a vegetable oil varies depending on its freshness and the extraction process through which it was obtained. Over time, the texture and quality of the oil can naturally decrease, even when the oil is relatively stable. Furthermore, the difference in the extraction process can also alter the preservation capacity and the quality of the oil.

Generally, vegetable oils extracted by cold pressing are less likely to clog pores. Indeed, this process requires neither chemical treatment nor heat, elements that could degrade the fatty acids in the oil and lead to the formation of new compounds, not necessarily beneficial for the skin.

What is the quality of pracaxi oil?

To enhance its quality and minimise its comedogenicity, it is preferable to choose a virgin pracaxi oil obtained through cold extraction. Furthermore, it is often recommended to store the oil away from light and heat in a closed and opaque bottle to optimise its preservation.

The pracaxi oil (INCI: Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil) used in our skincare products is extracted by cold pressing, with the seeds sourced from organic farming.

As of now, it remains challenging to definitively comment on the comedogenicity of pracaxi oil. While the use of this vegetable oil appears to be beneficial for dry skin lacking hydration, it is recommended that individuals with oily or acne-prone skin exercise more caution.