What does pracaxi oil contain?

The pracaxi oil, known by its INCI name "Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil", is a vegetable oil that offers numerous benefits for the skin and hair. The majority of its properties are derived from its biochemical composition of essential fatty acids.

Monounsaturated fatty acids including oleic acid (40 to 60%).

Monounsaturated fatty acids are the predominant constituents of pracaxi vegetable oil, such as oleic acid. This fatty acid from the omega-9 family naturally forms part of the composition of sebum, a greasy substance naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and then secreted onto the skin's surface to hydrate and protect it. Thus, the oleic acid contained in pracaxi oil will, in the same way as sebum, create a film on the skin's surface to ensure the maintenance of its hydration and protection against external aggressions.

In addition to its moisturising and protective properties, oleic acid plays an anti-inflammatory role through the activation of anti-inflammatory cytokines and the reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokine expression, as well as by inhibiting the activation of the NF-kB signalling pathway. This action would allow it to soothe the skin from inflammation-induced irritations. However, it is important to note that the anti-inflammatory effects depend on the concentration of oleic acid in the oil. At lower concentrations, its effect will be more limited.

Polyunsaturated fatty acids, notably linoleic acid (15 to 20%).

Beyond monounsaturated fatty acids, pracaxi oil also contains polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid, which belongs to the omega-6 family. A natural component of cell membranes, this fatty acid contributes to the maintenance of the integrity of the skin barrier by penetrating the stratum corneum, where it ensures the continuity of lipid organisation. It plays a role as an intercellular cement, helping to maintain the impermeability of the stratum corneum and thus preventing dehydration issues by limiting water loss.

This fatty acid also enables the pracaxi oil to exert healing properties, by acting as a precursor to the synthesis pathways of regeneration and neoangiogenesis mediators. Furthermore, linoleic acid contributes to the synthesis of acylceramides, a specific type of ceramide resulting from an amidation reaction between linoleic acid and a sphingoid base. Therefore, it would give the pracaxi oil its nourishing properties.

Saturated fatty acids (23 to 25%).

Pracaxi oil also contains saturated fatty acids that contribute to its moisturising effects due to their film-forming properties. They create a veil that helps protect the skin from external aggressions and limit water loss.

• 13 to 17% of behenic acid.

  Behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, features a carboxyl group in its structure that serves to ionise and attract divalent metal cations. This fatty acid has the ability to form a waterproof layer on the skin's surface, thus preserving it from water loss. Behenic acid helps to maintain the skin's natural hydration level. It also acts as a thickening agent and contributes to improving the texture of the oil.

• 4% of stearic acid.

  Pracaxi oil also contains stearic acid, an omega-3, which has a long carbon chain. This fatty acid has several properties that allow the oil to exert its benefits, notably moisturising and protective. Indeed, stearic acid has a film-forming power that contributes to the protection of the skin against external aggressions such as UVB rays, pollution or even tobacco. It also has nourishing properties.

• 3% of palmitic acid.

  Similar to stearic acid, palmitic acid helps to maintain skin hydration, thus preserving the integrity of the skin barrier by forming a protective film on its surface. It also has emollient properties, giving the skin flexibility and improved texture.

• Less than 1% of myristic acid and arachidic acid.

  Among the saturated fatty acids, pracaxi oil also contains myristic acid and arachidic acid. These fatty acids contribute to the strengthening of the hydrolipidic film due to their film-forming potential. They both play an essential role in skin protection, preventing its dehydration.

The predominant carotenoid in pracaxi oil is β-carotene, a plant pigment from the hydrocarbon family. This compound is particularly known for its powerful antioxidant properties, derived from its chemical structure rich in double bonds. This carotenoid exerts its antioxidant properties through its polyene chain, and allows for the trapping of free radicals and their neutralisation without attacking other skin constituents. It also exhibits a inhibitory action on the production of lipid peroxides. Therefore, it has photoprotective properties, limiting the effects of UV rays on the skin.

Pracaxi oil also contains Vitamin E, which similarly exhibits antioxidant properties in the same manner as β-carotene. This antioxidant activity primarily ensures the stability of pracaxi oil against oxidation. It thus delays its rancidity and enhances its preservation.

Beyond this activity, vitamin E also operates at the skin level by limiting the process of skin oxidation associated with exposure to aggressive factors such as UV rays or tobacco. The antioxidant activity of vitamin E is carried out by trapping free radicals, thereby reducing their damage to the DNA and structural proteins of the skin and decreasing the induction of oxidative stress. This type of compounds then plays a role in the prevention of skin ageing. Finally, vitamin E also has anti-inflammatory properties by acting on the NF-kB signalling pathway.

Pracaxi oil also contains phytosterols, notably stigmasterol. This sterol has a chain with a double bond and 17 carbon atoms. It has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting the pro-inflammatory NF-kB pathway. Phytosterols also have the ability to retain moisture within skin cells, helping to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier. These compounds also exert an antioxidant activity to prevent damage caused by oxidative stress, generated by the action of an excess of free radicals. They allow the neutralisation of free radicals by donating electrons or hydrogen atoms.

• COSTA R. & al. Characterisation of Pentaclethra macroloba. Thermal stability, gas chromatography and Rancimat (2013).

• BANOV D. & al. Case series: The efficacy of fatty acids from pracaxi oil in a topical silicone base for scar and wound treatment.Dermatology and Therapy (2014).

• ALVES A. J. & co. The fatty acid composition of vegetable oils and their potential application in wound treatment. Advances in Skin & Wound Care (2019).

• BLOCK J. M. & co. Composition, thermal behaviour and antioxidant activity of pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba) seed oil obtained by supercritical CO2. Biocatalysis and Agricultural Biotechnology (2020).