L'acide lactique : leurs bienfaits pour les peaux grasses.

Lactic acid, the ally of oily skin (+).

Lactic acid is a fruit acid of the alpha-hydroxy acid type. Like all acids of this class, lactic acid has exfoliating properties. It is very well tolerated and is suitable for all skin types. Discover the benefits of this molecule for oily skin (+).

Summary
Published August 29, 2022, updated on July 26, 2024, by Sandrine, Scientific Editor — 6 min read

Oily Skin: What is it?

Oily skin is characterised by a shiny and glossy complexion, primarily in the T-zone area (forehead, nose and chin). This is a result of an overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands. As the activity of the sebaceous glands is under hormonal control, the primary cause of this hyperseborrhea is hormonal factors.

Please note : Sebaceous glands are auxiliary glands of the epidermis responsible for the secretion of sebum. They are present on the entire surface of the skin (at the dermis level) except on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet (hairless areas).

Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids that form part of the hydrolipidic film. Its role is to protect the skin from external aggressions. Furthermore, it helps to maintain the hydration of the epidermis and prevent insensible water loss. Therefore, sebum is essential for the skin's good health.

However, when sebum is secreted in excess, it can lead to skin discomforts such as theappearance of acne. Indeed, the sebum can block the pores, which are the openings of the sebaceous glands on the skin surface. This fat-rich environment will be conducive to the proliferation of the bacteria responsible for the onset of acne, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) which primarily feeds on sebum. This bacteria secretes pro-inflammatory substances that cause inflammation and the formation of spots.

In order to combat skin discomfort associated with hypersecretion of sebum, the use of cosmetics containing lactic acid can prove to be beneficial.

The effects of lactic acid on oily skin.

Oily skin is characterised by a dull complexion, enlarged pores, and potentially the emergence of blemishes (acne, blackheads).

The use of skincare products containinglactic acid can improve skin discomfort associated with excess sebum. Indeed, lactic acid is an A.H.A. known for its keratolytic properties. In other words, it accelerates skin renewal by eliminating dead cells on the skin's surface. This action helps to unclog blocked pores. The sebum can then distribute more evenly across the skin's surface. Thus,Cutibacterium acnes can proliferate less, which will reduce the appearance of spots. Moreover, the acceleration of cell renewal promotes a radiant complexion.

Thanks to its hygroscopic action, lactic acid also has moisturising and humectant properties. Contrary to what one might think, skin hydration is crucial even for oily skin. It helps to prevent transepidermal dehydration and restore the skin barrier, in order to protect the skin from external aggressions.

Thus, the use of a skincare product containing lactic acid is beneficial for oily skin as it gently exfoliates the skin, while respecting the skin barrier.

Our lactic acid treatments.

We have formulated a serum containing 10% lactic acid. Highly concentrated, it provides your skin with gentle exfoliation due to its superficial action. By ridding the skin of its dead cells, our gentle peeling serum revives the complexion's radiance and fights against imperfections. The skin is smooth and glowing. Additionally, it contains an antioxidant, theacerola extract, which combats the free radicals responsible for a dull complexion. Our serum is suitable for all skin types (oily, dry, and combination skin). It is also suitable for sensitive skin as unlike glycolic acid, it is non-irritating and penetrates less deeply.

You can also find lactic acid in our peeling mask. Enriched with A.H.A. and P.H.A, it exfoliates the skin, leaving it smooth and soft. This concentrated gel mask eliminates dead cells to unclog pores and refine skin texture. Over time, it also helps to reduce the presence of blackheads. Its use is not recommended for people with sensitive skin, due to its high concentration of A.H.A.

Lactic acid being a photosensitising molecule, these treatments should be used only in the evening. The application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen is highly recommended the following morning.

Before using our lactic acid skincare products, perform a skin tolerance test. Apply a few drops of the product to the inside of your arm or the back of your hand and wait 24 hours. If you notice any skin reaction, do not use the product on your face.

Sources

  • SMITH W. P. & others. Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (1996).

  • Rotsztejn H. & al. Lactic and lactobionic acids as typically moisturising compounds. International Journal of Dermatology (2018)

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