Is there a danger in using sesame oil?

The sesame oil is a vegetable oil with a light and fluid texture as well as high oxidative stability. It is generally considered as suitable for all skin types, including oily skin. Sesame oil indeed has a comedogenicity index of 1, placing it in the category of low comedogenic vegetable oils.

However, concerns may arise regarding its allergenic potential. Indeed, sesame oil is composed of glycoproteins called "Ses i", found in 7 types ("Ses i 1" to "Ses i 7"). These molecules are believed to trigger an allergic reaction mediated by Immunoglobulin E (Ig E). Ig E is capable of recognising these specific proteins and causing the release of inflammation mediators such as histamines. This type of reaction is primarily found in the food sector, however caution is advised in cosmetic application, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

Besides, the use of sesame oil as a cosmetic poses no risks. Several reports have indeed been produced by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review), confirming the safety of use of this vegetable oil.

In order to prevent and limit the risks of an allergic reaction, it is advisable to carry out a skin allergy test before using sesame oil for the first time. This test is very simple and involves applying a small amount of sesame oil to the elbow, the inside of the wrist or behind the ear and waiting 24 hours. If no reaction has occurred (redness, itching...), it means that your skin tolerates sesame oil well. As for people with sesame food allergies, it is recommended to seek advice from their doctor. Although a food allergy does not systematically lead to a cosmetic allergy, it is better to remain cautious.

Furthermore, to ensure the safe use of sesame oil, it is necessary to verify that it is not rancid. This is done by examining several organoleptic parameters such as its smell, its colour and texture. If it shows a change in any of these parameters, it is advisable to avoid using it. To limit the risk of sesame oil oxidation, it is recommended to store it in a completely airtight container, protected from sunlight and heat. A study conducted in 2015 on oxidative potential indeed showed that the oxidation of a vegetable oil increased the risk of developing an allergic reaction. Once opened, sesame oil can be stored in the refrigerator for about 6 months.

• ANDERSEN A. & al. Revised Safety Evaluation of Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Sesame Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil Unsaponifiables, and Sodium Sesameseedate. International Journal of Toxicology (2011).

• HITOSHI U. & al. Oxidised dietary oils amplify immediate- and/or delayed-type allergic reactions in BALB/c mice. Allergology International (2015).

• MENG Q. & al. Sesame (Sesamum indicumL.): An Exhaustive Review of Nutritional Value, Phytochemical Composition, Health Advantages, Food Development, and Industrial Applications. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2022).