Everything you need to know about sesame oil.

Sesame is a herbaceous plant belonging to the Pedaliaceae family. It is an annual plant that has been cultivated for over 3000 years, primarily in tropical regions and the Middle East. Known by the scientific name of Sesamum Indicum, sesame can grow up to two metres tall. Its seeds are small, oval, and flat, and grow in elongated, rigid pods. The famous phrase "Open Sesame" from the tale of Ali Baba is thought to be inspired by the sound of mature sesame pods opening, which produces a relatively loud, dry noise.

Sesame is highly valued for its vegetable oil, which is clear and golden with an exotic taste. It is typically extracted from the seeds through cold pressing, a technique that allows the oil to retain the majority of its beneficial components. Sesame oil is characterised by a good stability to oxidation, partly due to its significant antioxidant activity. It can be used by all skin types, including oily skin, as it is non-comedogenic.

The sesame oil is renowned for its numerous benefits, which it delivers due to its phytochemical composition rich in bioactive compounds.

Note : The composition of sesame vegetable oil can vary depending on where the tree is grown and how the oil is extracted from the seeds.

In cosmetics, the sesame oil can be used in topical or hair applications, either alone or diluted within a mixture. It is thus found in the formulation of numerous creams, serums, masks or even conditioners. This oil, thanks to its composition, possesses a range of beneficial properties for the skin and hair, making its cosmetic use interesting.

• Sesame oil promotes healing and soothes the skin.

  Sesame oil exhibits a noteworthy healing effect. A study by JAVDANI has particularly demonstrated that sesame oil aids in enhancing cellular regeneration by increasing vascular permeability and neovascularisation. By promoting blood supply to the wound, sesame oil improves its healing. Furthermore, the hydration provided by the fatty acids in the oil improves the appearance of scars over time.

• Sesame oil slows down skin ageing by protecting the skin from oxidative stress.

  The high antioxidant content of sesame oil enables it to combat oxidative stress. Free radicals are unstable species produced in response to exposure to various factors (pollution, UV, tobacco, etc). By reacting with different cellular constituents, particularly with DNA, they accelerate the ageing process, causing premature degeneration of cells and destabilising the structural protein fibres of the dermis. By neutralising these free radicals, the antioxidants in sesame oil prevent this phenomenon.

• Sesame oil ensures skin hydration and enhances its suppleness.

  Sesame oil is rich in fatty acids such as linoleic and oleic acids. These molecules form a film on the skin's surface, promoting skin hydration and limiting transepidermal water loss. They thus ensure the maintenance of the skin's lipid barrier integrity and boost the production of ceramides, which serve as intercellular cement in the epidermis. By strengthening the skin structure, the fatty acids allow the skin to be more supple and elastic. Furthermore, sesame oil contains phytosterols, which also capture and retain water within the epidermis. They thus ensure the support of the hydrolipidic film.

• Sesame oil alleviates redness and soothes irritations.

  Thanks to the lignans it contains, particularly sesamin, sesame oil has anti-inflammatory effects. This molecule works by significantly inhibiting the expression of mRNA of pro-inflammatory factors such as interleukins-1 and 6. In doing so, it soothes skin inflammation. Moreover, the other compounds in sesame oil (fatty acids, vitamin E and phytosterols) work in synergy to enhance and speed up the inflammatory response, leading to a reduction in its symptoms. Sesame oil could therefore potentially help to alleviate the symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions like eczema.

• Sesame oil protects and nourishes the hair, ensuring hair shine.

  The sesame oil exhibits intriguing properties for hair. Indeed, it nourishes hair fibres through biomimicry, making them shinier. The antioxidant activity of sesame oil could also potentially combat the onset of grey hair by mitigating the effects of oxidative stress.

As stated above, sesame oil is suitable for all skin types, even those prone to acne. However, its allergenic potential should not be overlooked. Indeed, sesame oil contains "Ses i" glycoproteins, of which there are 7. These proteins are believed to trigger an allergic reaction mediated by immunoglobulin E (Ig E). This type of allergic reaction is primarily found following the ingestion of sesame oil, however, it is recommended for those with sensitive skin to be cautious.

To minimise the risk of skin reactions as much as possible, it is strongly advised to perform a tolerance test, either in the crook of the elbow or behind the ear, before using sesame oil for the first time. Lastly, to ensure its quality, we recommend storing it under conditions that allow for limiting the risk of oxidation. Therefore, keep your sesame oil in a sealed and airtight bottle, away from light and heat.

You can find the nourishing and antioxidant virtues of sesame oil in our shimmering dry oil. Also formulated with safflower oil, moringa oil, plum oil and hibiscus oil, this treatment hydrates and nourishes the skin and hair while protecting them from oxidative stress. Moreover, this dry oil contains ascorbyl palmitate, a form of fat-soluble and stabilised vitamin C that easily penetrates the skin barrier and resists UV and heat. In addition to providing softness, nutrition and protection to the skin and hair, this treatment gives them a luminous finish and a satin glow thanks to the natural nacres present in its formula.

• HWANG L. & al. Sesame Oil. Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products (2005).

• SCHNEIDER L. & al. Prenatal exposure to food allergens and the likelihood of childhood sensitization to peanuts, tree nuts, or sesame seeds. Allergy, asthma & immunology (2013).

• AROOJ A. & al. Stress and Hair: Are they Connected? Pakistan Journal of Medical & Health Sciences (2015).

• JAVDANI A. & al. The Healing Effect of Sesame Oil, Camphor and Honey on Second Degree Burn Wounds in Rats. World Journal of Plastic Surgery (2018).

• MENG Q. & al. Sesame (Sesamum indicumL.): An Exhaustive Review of Nutritional Value, Phytochemical Composition, Health Advantages, Food Development, and Industrial Applications. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute Journal (2022).