Is sesame oil comedogenic?

A vegetable oil is described as comedogenic when it has the ability to create an occlusive film on the skin's surface. This film can potentially clog the pores and thus block the evacuation of sebum, which promotes the appearance of blemishes. For individuals with oily or acne-prone skin, the application of a comedogenic oil can lead to a worsening of their skin condition. The comedogenic nature of oils is evaluated on a scale ranging from 0 to 5. An ingredient is said to be non-comedogenic when its comedogenicity index is 0. It is considered slightly comedogenic when its index is 1 or 2. Conversely, an oil with an index between 4 and 5 is considered comedogenic and should be avoided by individuals with oily skin.

The comedogenicity index is influenced by various criteria including the oxidative potential of the oil, that is, its sensitivity to oxidation. This can be triggered by exposure to heat, UV rays, atmospheric oxygen, or from a problem with the oil's preservation. Oxidation increases comedogenicity. Moreover, the quality of the oil influences its comedogenic potential. Generally, vegetable oils extracted by cold pressing are less likely to clog pores. Finally, the rate at which the oil penetrates affects its comedogenicity. A thick and greasy oil is difficult for the skin to absorb and has a more pronounced occlusive character.

Note : Applying a product containing a comedogenic oil does not systematically lead to the appearance of comedones. Various factors can influence skin reactions such as its overall composition, the oil concentration in the product, as well as the individual's skin type.

The sesame oil is a vegetable oil considered as very low comedogenic and has a comedogenicity index of 1. Indeed, thanks to its composition rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, compounds responsible for its fluid nature, the sesame oil is easily absorbed by the skin and scalp and does not leave a greasy film on the surface. Furthermore, this vegetable oil has good oxidative stability, meaning its oxidative potential is relatively low. In addition, it has a significant content of vitamin E, an antioxidant contributing to its oxidative stability.

Sesame oil can thus be described as a dry vegetable oil. It is perfectly suitable for all skin types, including oily or acne-prone skin.

In order to ensure the use of a non-comedogenic and high-quality sesame oil, it is advisable to choose a vegetable oil that is organically sourced and cold-pressed. Furthermore, make sure to store it away from heat and light in an airtight container. Once opened, sesame oil can be stored for approximately 6 months in the refrigerator.

• MORRIS W. E. & others. Utilisation of the rabbit ear model in assessing the comedogenic potential of cosmetic ingredients. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1983).

• HWANG L. & al. Sesame Oil. Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products (2005).

• MICHALAK M. & al. The application of carrier oils in aromatherapy massage and their impact on the skin. Archives of Physiotherapy and Global Researches (2018).