Is apricot oil comedogenic?

The term comedogenicity refers to a cosmetic concept that denotes the ability of an ingredient or product to clog the skin's pores. This is primarily associated with thick and oily textures. By forming an occlusive film on the skin's surface, comedogenic ingredients or products prevent the evacuation of sebum, which can result in the formation of comedones. Individuals with a skin prone to acne are particularly susceptible to this.

Due to their film-forming nature, vegetable oils are often suspected of being comedogenic. However, while some are indeed not recommended for oily skin, this is not always the case. Moreover, there are vegetable oils whose light texture and anti-inflammatory properties make them allies for those prone to blemishes. It is also good to keep in mind that a product containing a comedogenic ingredient will not necessarily cause the appearance of comedones. This will depend on the concentration of the ingredient, the other active substances present in the formula, and the sensitivity of the individual who will use it.

Key Information : Comedogenicity is assessed on a scale ranging from 0 to 5. Oils with a rating of 0 or 1 can be used by all skin types. It is recommended for normal to combination skin to opt for an oil with a rating between 0 and 3. Finally, dry skin types are free from restrictions and can use all vegetable oils.

The apricot oil boasts a beautiful orange hue accompanied by a fruity scent typical of the apricot fruit from which it is extracted. From an organoleptic perspective, it is a relatively dry oil with a comedogenicity index of 2. Therefore, it is slightly comedogenic and its application is not suitable for all skin types. While the apricot oil is ideal for individuals with dry to combination skin due to its moisturising and nourishing properties, it is not recommended for use on oily skin, as it may promote the occurrence of comedones.

Furthermore, the comedogenicity of apricot oil can be correlated with its sensitivity to oxidation. When exposed to air, the components of apricot oil can oxidise and degrade, not only compromising the quality of the oil but also potentially increasing its comedogenic index. This is why it is important to store it in a sealed bottle that is consistently closed tightly after use. Finally, it has been observed that vegetable oils extracted by cold pressing tend to be less comedogenic than those extracted by solvent. Therefore, it may be beneficial to inquire about the origin and extraction method of a vegetable oil before using it.

• QADIR R. & al. Cold pressed apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.) kernel oil. Cold Pressed Oils (2020).

• VIYOCH J. & al. Safety evaluation of comedogenicity in dermatological products containing d-alpha tocopheryl acetate in Asian subjects: A double-blind randomized controlled trial. Contemporary Clinical Trials Communications (2021).