Apricot Oil: What are its benefits for the skin?

Apricot oil, or Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil as it is known by its INCI name, is a vegetable oil highly regarded for its moisturising properties. These properties are derived from its biochemical composition , particularly its richness in oleic acid, its primary compound. This compound belongs to the omega-9 family and is naturally found in the hydrolipidic film that coats the skin. Its presence in apricot oil allows this oil to play a protective role for the epidermis and to reduce water loss.

The moisturising virtues of the apricot oil are particularly beneficial to the delicate eye contour area and help to prevent dehydration fine lines. These superficial small streaks tend to appear in our twenties on areas where the skin is thinnest. By providing good skin hydration, apricot oil helps to delay their onset.

Apricot oil can also help to strengthen the skin barrier and eliminate feelings of discomfort and the characteristic tightness of dry skin. Rich in linoleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid involved in the synthesis of a certain category of ceramides, the acylceramides, apricot oil nourishes the skin and provides it with the lipids it needs.

Several studies have indeed shown that a deficiency in linoleic acid in the stratum corneum is observed in cases of severe skin dryness or eczema. This weakening of the skin barrier is accompanied by significant insensible water loss (IWL), which also promotes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, making them more visible. The application of a skincare product based on apricot oil is thus beneficial for people with dry skin and helps to nourish the epidermis, while making it less prone to dehydration.

Apricot oil also has a recognised antioxidant activity, derived from its concentration of tocopherols, carotenoids and phytosterols. This diversity allows it to protect the skin and its compounds against damage caused by free radicals. Generated following exposure to UV rays, pollution or tobacco, these are reactive molecules that can cause changes in the structure of skin proteins, leading to skin damage (wrinkles, skin sagging, pigmentation problems). By neutralising free radicals, apricot oil prevents these issues and helps to brighten the complexion.

Unlike essential oils, vegetable oils are the allies of those with sensitive skin. Apricot oil is no exception and possesses anti-inflammatory properties that allow it to reduce redness and soothe irritations and itching. These properties come from its omega-3 fatty acids, which are capable of increasing the production of resolvins and protectins, anti-inflammatory lipid mediators. Furthermore, apricot oil inhibits the synthesis of inflammation mediators such as leukotrienes.

Studies in vitro have also highlighted that apricot oil can induce apoptosis in HaCaT cells via certain receptors involved in the mitochondrial pathways. This apoptosis is correlated with the inhibition of the NF-κB pathway, known to trigger the synthesis of several pro-inflammatory cytokines. These various mechanisms help to explain the origin of the soothing benefits of apricot oil.

The amber hue of the apricot oil and its carotenoid content suggest that it may stimulate melanogenesis. However, while scientific studies have indeed shown that a diet rich in ß-carotenes and other carotenoids can help achieve a tanned complexion, researchers who have conducted topical application studies are more cautious. Moreover, the concentrations of ß-carotenes used in these studies are far higher than that of apricot oil. At present, it therefore seems difficult to assert that this vegetable oil can enhance tanning.

Note : The orange hue of the apricot oil allows it to provide an immediate healthy glow effect to the skin. To achieve this, we recommend adding one to two drops of this vegetable oil to your regular moisturising cream or to a massage oil.

Apricot oil is also credited with the ability to delay the onset of wrinkles. In addition to preventing and reducing dehydration lines due to its moisturising power and protecting cellular constituents with its antioxidant activity, apricot oil is said to have a inhibitory effect on collagenase and elastase. These are the enzymes that catalyse the degradation reactions of collagen and elastin respectively, which are the supporting fibres of the dermis essential to the good condition of the skin. The levels of collagen and elastin tend to decrease gradually from our twenties, which greatly contributes to the skin ageing process.

However, caution is advised regarding the anti-collagenase and anti-elastase effects of apricot oil: at present, they have only been demonstrated instudies in vitro. It would be interesting to see if this vegetable oil can prevent or mitigate the effects of time on the skin in clinical trials.

• TIAN F. & al. Composition and antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of white apricot almond (Amygdalus communis L.) oil. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology (2011).

• REICH A. & al. Natural cold pressed oils as cosmetic products. Family Medicine & Primary Care Review (2016).

• EL-SHIEKH R. & co. A Powerful Anti-Ageing and Immunomodulatory Activity of Standardised Apricot Seed Extract and its Primary Compound; Amygdalin. Tropical Journal of Natural Product Research (2020).

• NAZZARO F. & al. Fatty Acid Composition, Antioxidant, and in vitro Anti-inflammatory Activity of Five Cold-Pressed Prunus Seed Oils, and Their Anti-biofilm Effect Against Pathogenic Bacteria. Frontiers in Nutrition (2021).