All you need to know about apricot kernel oil.

The apricot is a fleshy fruit that comes from the apricot tree. Its scientific name is Prunus armeniaca, and this flowering plant is part of the Rosaceae family. Depending on the conditions in which they are grown, apricot trees can reach six metres in height and are characterised by a relatively early blooming period, which makes them susceptible to spring frosts. Originally from China, these trees were imported into France from the Renaissance period. However, their real expansion began during the reign of Louis XIV, under the influence of the gardener Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie who cultivated a large number of them at the court of Versailles. Highly appreciated by the king and his court, the apricot quickly took a prominent place on the most sumptuous tables, from where it has never since departed.

With its sweet flavour, soft skin and brilliant colour, the apricot is one of the most popular summer fruits. Rich in fibre and antioxidants, apricots help maintain cardiovascular health and aid digestion. As well as its flavour, the apricot contains a stone from which a vegetable oil can be extracted, packed with cosmetic benefits. From an organoleptic point of view, the oil has a smooth, fluid texture, an amber-orange colour and a relatively oily feel.

The apricot oil has an interesting biochemical composition that explains its cosmetic benefits.

Apricot oil can be used in its pure form as a topical application or hair treatment or it can be used to formulate creams, masks or serums. Its wide range of cosmetic uses is due to its interesting biological activity for the skin and hair.

• Hydrate and soften the skin.

  The numerous fatty acids found in apricot oil enable it to strengthen the skin's lipid barrier. Indeed, some of these fatty acids influence the production of ceramides, molecules found in the intercellular cement of the epidermis that greatly contribute to its flexibility and protection. Moreover, apricot oil contains phytosterols that capture and retain moisture. They support the hydrolipidic film present on the skin's surface and help to limit water loss.

• Protecting the skin from oxidative stress and slowing down skin ageing.

  The antioxidants found within apricot oil enable it to neutralise free radicals, the primary culprits of premature cellular degeneration and environmental damage (pollution, sun exposure, tobacco...). This activity helps to prevent skin ageing and the pigmentation disorders that oxidative stress can cause. Studies in vitro have also shown that apricot oil can inhibit the activities of collagenase and elastase, enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin. It could thus protect these essential proteins that maintain skin firmness.

• Alleviate and soothe irritations.

  Apricot oil can also act on certain signs and symptoms of the inflammatory response. Studies have notably shown that it induces apoptosis in HaCaT cells via certain receptors involved in the mitochondrial pathways. This leads to the inhibition of the NF-κB pathway and prevents the synthesis of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The apricot oil is thus a good option for relieving irritations due to minor burns and/or sunburn. It is also credited with the ability to alleviate the symptoms of eczema, although more studies on this subject are still needed.

• Maintaining the quality of hair fibres.

  Apricot oil can indeed be used to protect and nourish hair fibres. Whether used as a hair oil bath or incorporated into a treatment, it makes the hair shiny and soft while preventing the appearance of split ends. Similar to its application on the skin, apricot oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film that coats the hair. Furthermore, it contributes to the cohesion of the cuticle scales, the outer part of the hair fibres that provide shine and impermeability to the hair.

Apricot oil is a gentle vegetable oil suitable for application on sensitive skin. However, its use by breastfeeding women or those who have recently given birth should be approached with certain caution. Indeed, it is not recommended to apply apricot oil to the nipples or areas of the body that may come into contact with the baby. This precaution is due to the potential traces of amygdalin it may contain: this molecule, found in the apricot kernel, converts into cyanide upon ingestion, a deadly poison. Similarly, the use of apricot oil on baby's skin is not advised. Instead, opt for calendula oil macerate or camelina oil, which are more suitable.

Furthermore, if you have oily or acne-prone skin, the apricot oil may not necessarily suit you as it is slightly comedogenic, meaning it promotes the appearance of comedones in predisposed individuals. If this is your case, it is better to use argan oil, jojoba oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, prickly pear oil or avocado oil, all vegetable oils with a comedogenicity index of 0.

Lastly, remember to check the quality of your apricot oil before using it. Vegetable oils rich in omega-3 are often sensitive to degradation due to the double bonds present in the chemical structure of these compounds. To maintain the quality and safety of your apricot oil, make sure to tightly seal the bottle after each use and store it in a cool place, away from direct sunlight. If in doubt, do not hesitate to perform a tolerance test in the crook of your wrist or elbow to observe any potential skin reactions.

You can find apricot oil in our tanning concentrate. Suitable for all skin types, this product contains neither silicones nor microplastic glitter. Ourantioxidant-enriched tanning concentrateallows for a warm, sun-kissed complexion without the need for exposure to harmful UV rays. Designed to blend with a moisturiser, it provides acustomisable tandepending on the amount used and is suitable for all skin tones.

In addition to apricot oil, our tanning concentrate is formulated with 2% Vitamin E. This well-known antioxidant is capable of trapping free radicals and combating oxidative stress, in order toimprove the skin's conditionand prevent skin sagging and hyperpigmentation issues. More than just a tinted product, this is a true hybrid care combining an immediate healthy glow effect with skin protection.

• REICH A. & al. Natural cold pressed oils as cosmetic products. Family Medicine & Primary Care Review (2016).

• EL-SHIEKH R. & co. A Powerful Anti-Ageing and Immunomodulatory Activity of Standardised Apricot Seed Extract and its Primary Compound; Amygdalin. Tropical Journal of Natural Product Research (2020).

• JI-SUN M. & JU-SUB K. Effects of Apricot Kernel Oil on Hair Texture Enhancement. Journal of Korean Applied Science and Technology (2021).

• NAZZARO F. & al. Fatty Acid Composition, Antioxidant, and in vitro Anti-inflammatory Activity of Five Cold-Pressed Prunus Seed Oils, and Their Anti-biofilm Effect Against Pathogenic Bacteria. Frontiers in Nutrition (2021).

• KHANEGHAH A. & al. The potential of apricot seed and oil as functional food: Composition, biological properties, health benefits & safety. Food Bioscience (2023).