Bakuchiol is a recent active ingredient gaining popularity due to its benefits: regenerative, soothing, antioxidant, and anti-acne properties. You can enjoy its virtues through various types of treatments.
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In which skincare products can we find bakuchiol?
Summary
- What exactly is Bakuchiol?
- What are its benefits?
- In what forms is bakuchiol available and what are its uses?
- In which Typology skincare products can one find bakuchiol?
Published June 17, 2022,
updated on July 26, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
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What exactly is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of thePsoralea corylifolia (Babchi). Also known as "Bakuchi", this plant endemic to the Himalayan region has been listed for hundreds of years in the Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia, in traditional medicine.
From a chemical perspective, it is a meroterpenic phenol. It made its debut in the beauty market in 2007. Even though it does not have the same chemical structure as retinol, its functions are remarkably similar on the skin, making it a recognised alternative to vitamin A derivatives, the use of which can be accompanied by photosensitisation or skin irritations.
What are its benefits?
Like retinol, bakuchiol is recommended for skin types dealing with two very specific issues.
Bakuchiol is recognised for its ability to boost the production of type I collagen. It also limits the degradation of collagen and elastin by matrix metalloproteinases (MMP). This ensures smoother and more elastic skin. Moreover, this active ingredient possesses antioxidant properties. It prevents the appearance of ageing signs by neutralising free radicals. As a reminder, these are highly reactive molecules generated by various factors (stress, pollution, smoking...) that degrade the proteins and healthy cells of the skin, accelerating the appearance of ageing signs. Furthermore, bakuchiol regulates the overproduction of melanin, helping to diminish the appearance of brown spots that may appear over the years.
Bakuchiol effectively combats Propionibacterium acnes, a microorganism involved in the emergence of blemishes. Additionally, it regulates sebum production by inhibiting the hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands. It also has anti-inflammatory properties: studies show that bakuchiol has a strong inhibitory activity against COX-2, an enzyme that contributes to the formation of prostaglandins.
In what forms is bakuchiol available and what are its uses?
The bakuchiol has the advantage of having no contraindications. It is gentle for sensitive skin, is not photosensitising and can be used safely by pregnant and/or breastfeeding women. It therefore easily integrates into a skincare routine, and can be used both in the morning and in the evening.
In the market, this active ingredient can be found in various types of skincare products, typically at a concentration ranging between 0.5 and 1% (the optimal concentration at which its effectiveness has been proven).
It is predominantly found in serums to reduce the appearance of wrinkles or combat blemishes.
Bakuchiol is often incorporated into treatments intended for the eye contour, to combat wrinkles and fine lines. This area of the face is very thin and subject to numerous movements due to facial expressions, thus it shows the signs of ageing more prominently (crow's feet wrinkles).
Bakuchiol can also be found in certain day and night moisturising creams, as well as in facial oils. Being lipophilic, it integrates perfectly with a vegetable oil such as sweet almond, rosehip or sea buckthorn.
In which Typology skincare products can one find bakuchiol?
We have developed theblemish serumwith 1% bakuchiol and hazelnut vegetable oil, known for regulating sebum production and rebalancing the hydrolipidic film. Entirely natural, this treatment is suitable for blemish-prone and acne-prone skin. It's worth noting, even though this serum is not photosensitising (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), we recommend its use primarilyin the evening, at the end of your routine, due to its rather rich texture.
Furthermore, the wrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. Synthesised by endemic Australian plants, the plant polypeptides it contains are capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin. These peptides also contribute to maintaining a thick epidermis, which plays its role as a shield against the external environment.
MARCHIO F. & al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).
BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound unveiled through gene expression profiling and clinically validated to possess anti-aging properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).
REITER P. & al. Prospective, Randomised, Double-Blind Evaluation of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).
LEVY S. & al. Clinical Assessment of a Natural Bakuchiol Anti-Ageing Moisturiser for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).
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