Bakuchiol is a new active ingredient that is becoming increasingly popular for its regenerating, soothing, antioxidant and anti-acne effects. You can benefit from its advantages via various skincare products. Find out what they are here:
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In Which Care Products Can You Find Bakuchiol?
Summary
- What is Bakuchiol?
- What Are the Benefits of Bakuchiol?
- In What Forms and for What Purposes Is Bakuchiol Available?
- In Which Typology Skincare Products Can You Find Bakuchiol?
- Sources
Published February 29, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi). Also known as "bakuchi", this endemic plant from the Himalayan region has been part of the Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia in traditional medicine for hundreds of years.
Chemically, it is a phenol. It first appeared on the beauty market in 2007. Although bakuchiol does not have the same chemical structure as retinol, its essentially similar functions on the skin make it a recognized alternative to vitamin A derivatives, the use of which can be associated with photosensitization or skin irritation.
What Are the Benefits of Bakuchiol?
Like retinol, bakuchiol is recommended for skin affected by two very specific challenges.
Bakuchiol is known for its ability to boost the production of type I collagen. It also limits the breakdown of collagen and elastin by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Thus, it provides smoother and more elastic skin. In addition, this active ingredient has antioxidant properties. It prevents the signs of skin aging by neutralizing free radicals. These are very reactive molecules produced by various factors (stress, pollution, smoking, etc.) that break down proteins and healthy skin cells, causing the signs of aging to appear more quickly. In addition, Bakuchiol regulates the overproduction of melanin, reducing the appearance of brown spots that may appear over the years.
Bakuchiol effectively combats Propionibacterium acnes, a microorganism involved in the development of skin blemishes. In addition, it regulates sebum production by inhibiting the overactivity of sebaceous glands. It also has anti-inflammatory properties: studies show that bakuchiol has a strong inhibitory effect against COX-2, an enzyme that contributes to the formation of prostaglandins.
In What Forms and for What Purposes Is Bakuchiol Available?
Bakuchiol has the advantage of having no contraindications. It is gentle to sensitive skin and does not have a photosensitizing effect. Therefore, it can be easily integrated into a skin care routine and can be used both in the morning and in the evening.
On the market, this active ingredient is available in various skin care products in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 1% (the optimal concentration at which its effectiveness has been proven).
It is most commonly found in serums to soften the appearance of wrinkles or combat blemishes.
Bakuchiol is also commonly used in skin care products for the eye area to combat fine lines and wrinkles. Because this area of the face is very thin and subject to a lot of movement due to facial expressions, it is more noticeable over time ("crow's feet" wrinkles).
Bakuchiol can also be found in some night and day moisturizers, as well as in facial oils. Because it is lipophilic, it makes an excellent ingredient in vegetable oils such as sweet almond, rosehip or sea buckthorn oil.
In Which Typology Skincare Products Can You Find Bakuchiol?
We have developed the serum for blemishes with 1% bakuchiol and hazelnut oil, which is known to regulate sebum production and rebalance the hydrolipidic film. This completely natural care is suitable for blemished and acne-prone skin. Note: Even though this serum is not photosensitizing (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), due to its rather rich texture, we recommend its use rather in the evening, at the end of the skincare routine.
In addition, the Wrinkles and Blemishes Serum combines the densifying action of Retinol (0.3%) with the antibacterial action of Bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. The plant polypeptides can interact with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. In this way, they help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and tighten the skin. These peptides also help maintain a thick epidermis, which performs its function as a protective shield against the outside world.
Sources :
MARCHIO F. & al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).
BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).
REITER P. & al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).
LEVY S. & al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).
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