Whether of natural or synthetic origin, theglycolic acid, formerly known as hydroxyacetic acid, isthe shortest of the alpha-hydroxy acids (A.H.A.). Renowned for its exfoliating power, glycolic acid helps toregulate sebum production in oily skinand thus toinhibit the formation of imperfections, caused by a blockage of the pores by dead cells, which are at the root of the appearance of blackheads and acne.
Glycolic acid, an ally against blackheads and enlarged pores.
Summary
Published on July 26, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 7 min of reading
Themes:
Blackheads and enlarged pores: why are they correlated?
Pores are the openings through which sebum, or oil, is secreted. There are as many as 300,000 just on the face alone! They can become unsightly when they are enlarged, giving the appearance of anirregular skin texture. According to a study, skin pores are considered "visible" and "enlarged" when their diameter ranges between 0.06 and 0.1 mm2.
When pores are large and dilated, they become real "entry points" for impurities (pollution microparticles, dead cells, cosmetic residues, sebum...). What then occurs is a phenomenon of saturation, leading to the formation of "plugs". Upon contact with air, these oxidise and take on a dark hue: blackheads (or open comedones) appear.
If left untreated, blackheads can rupture and release their contents outward, either spontaneously or when pressure is applied with fingers or a comedone extractor. They can also progress to an inflammatory stage and form red and painful acne spots.
One should avoid handling their blackheads to prevent infection. However, they rarely disappear on their own and it may be beneficial to seek a professional skin cleansing or to have their comedones mechanically extracted by a dermatologist. This allows for the unblocking of pores, enabling the skin to better absorb applied treatments.
Take note! When we talk about enlarged pores, we are actually referring to dilated ostia. Indeed, ostia are the sebum elimination openings connected to the sebaceous glands, while pores are the sweat excretion holes correlated with the sweat glands. However, in general parlance, we tend to refer to enlarged pores when discussing sebaceous pores, which are often more visible on the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose, chin).
How does glycolic acid act on enlarged pores and blackheads?
Glycolic acid is a friend to oily skin and acne-prone skin. Its main property is to be keratolytic thereby preventing the accumulation of cellular waste on the surface of the epidermis. Indeed, through simple contact and without rubbing, glycolic acid will weaken the lipid bonds between the cells of the horny layer, thus freeing the skin from its layer of dead cells. This property will gradually remove the obstruction of the pores and promote the evacuation of sebum.
It also possesses a sebum-regulating action. Indeed, glycolic acid helps to combat the abnormal accumulation of sebum in the dilated pores of the skin, which is the cause of the formation of acne lesions and blackheads. Known as being the smallest of the alpha-hydroxy acids (A.H.A.), glycolic acid manages to easily penetrate the layers of the skin. It thus acts on the surface but also in depth.
Glycolic acid in treatments for blackheads and enlarged pores.
In cosmetic products, the concentration of glycolic acid varies between 4 and 10%, allowing for a range from gentle exfoliation to more pronounced skin peeling.
A concentration of 4% is sufficient to provide a moisturising effect. These types of products can also be useful in preparing the skin to better tolerate subsequent treatments with higher concentrations of glycolic acid by acidifying the stratum corneum. Around 8 to 10%, the treatments, suitable for night-time application, begin to have a keratolytic effect of a mild peeling type, thus stimulating the renewal of skin cells. These formulations will also help to combat skin irregularities (excess sebum, enlarged pores, blackheads, etc...), emerging wrinkles and a lack of radiance. Although regulation does not provide any maximum usage threshold, it is estimated that 20% is a reasonable limit for home cosmetic treatments. At very high concentrations (>20%), peelings should be performed under strict medical supervision in dermatology clinics.
At Typology, we have developed several products that contain glycolic acid.
The exfoliating serum : composed of 10% glycolic acid, this treatment will improve the quality and texture of the epidermis by providing hydration to the skin, thanks to its stimulating effect on cell renewal and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and by combating blackheads and enlarged pores. We recommend using the glycolic acid serum for 4 weeks to see its effects: resulting in a smoother and more unified complexion.
The exfoliating toner : with a glycolic acid content of 8%, this lotion allows for skin exfoliation, deep pore cleansing to limit the presence of blackheads, and pore tightening.
The exfoliating night cream : combining the action of glycolic acid and mandelic acid, it helps to tighten pores and reduce the presence of blackheads in order to restore the skin's radiance.
The peeling mask : composed of an exfoliating complex (4 AHA + 1 PHA), this concentrated gel mask eliminates dead cells to unclog pores and refine skin texture. The complexion is evened out and the presence of blackheads is reduced.
Beware, theglycolic acid is aphotosensitising active ingredientthat reacts to exposure to UV rays. Therefore, it is wise toapply it in the eveningand to use asunscreenduring the day, for the duration of the product's use.
Source:
KAWASHIMA M. & al. Glycolic acid chemical peeling enhances the resolution of inflammatory acne outbreaks due to its inhibitory and bactericidal impacts on Propionibacterium acnes.Journal of Dermatology(2012).
