How to properly choose a calendula oil macerate?

There are several ways to obtain a calendula oil macerate. This can be derived from a cold maceration, hot maceration, or a solvent extraction using vegetable oil. While the first two methods are more traditional, the third is generally more effective and allows for the intensification of the solvent power of the fatty substance due to the compression created in the extraction chamber. The calendula oil macerate obtained by solvent extraction often yields a higher amount of extracted molecules. Therefore, it may be wise to opt for a calendula oil produced using this technique, in order to have an ingredient rich in bioactive compounds.

Another interesting point to check is how the carrier vegetable oil used to extract the calendula macerate was obtained. Generally, it is recommended to favour vegetable oils extracted by cold pressing, a technique carried out by mechanically pressing the seeds and requiring neither chemical solvents nor temperature elevation. Cold pressing is a 100% natural and environmentally friendly method: it requires little energy and avoids the release of polluting residues. Moreover, as the process is carried out at low temperatures, the vegetable oil is not degraded and retains all its active ingredients and virtues. For your information, vegetable oils obtained by cold pressing are referred to as virgin oils.

At Typology, we use a calendula macerate obtained through solvent extraction from Egyptian flowers. The carrier oil used is a cold-pressed sunflower oil sourced from Germany.

As previously stated, calendula oil macerate is obtained by steeping marigold flowers in a vegetable oil, such as sunflower oil, sesame oil, olive oil or jojoba oil, which are neutral vegetable oils. These oils serve as a base to extract the active compounds from the calendula flowers, such as flavonoids and triterpenes, while also providing their own nourishing properties. However, in some individuals, the topical application of one or more of these oils results in undesirable skin reactions, such as irritation, redness or itching. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to each individual's tolerance and choose a calendula oil macerate prepared with a vegetable oil that is suitable for their skin.

Advice : Before using calendula oil macerate or any other cosmetic for the first time, apply a small amount to a limited area of your skin, such as the inside of your wrist or the crook of your elbow. Then wait 24 to 48 hours to check for the absence of skin reaction. Simple to carry out, this test is nonetheless essential to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

It may also be worthwhile to investigate the agricultural practice through which the calendula oil macerate was obtained. Indeed, certain sustainable and organic farming techniques can guarantee the production of an oil that is not contaminated by pesticides and is of higher quality. This criterion can be validated by checking the organic certifications, such as COSMOS, Nature and Progress, or Ecogarantie. These labels ensure that the calendula oil macerate comes from plants grown according to the principles of organic farming. In addition to these certifications, labels like Fairtrade or Fair for Life provide some transparency about the production conditions of the calendula oil, ensuring that it has been obtained under ethical working conditions.

The marigold flowers from which the calendula oil macerate found at Typology is derived, are sourced from organic farming, as is the sunflower oil used as a carrier oil.

The visual and olfactory characteristics of a calendula oil macerate allow for an assessment of its quality. Indeed, a high-quality macerate exhibits a bright yellow to orange hue. A colour that is too pale may indicate a weak extraction of active ingredients, often due to insufficient maceration or the use of poor-quality flowers. Conversely, a product with a brownish or cloudy colour may reveal advanced oxidation or contamination by microorganisms. Regarding the scent of the calendula oil macerate, it is mild and slightly herbaceous. A strong or rancid smell signals product degradation, often caused by the oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids present in the vegetable oil used for maceration. Finally, the texture can also provide clues about the quality of the calendula oil macerate: this ingredient should be a homogeneous fluid and non-viscous.

Poor storage can compromise the quality of oil macerates. These ingredients are susceptible to oxidation, particularly due to the lipid nature of the vegetable oil that composes them. That's why oil macerates, like calendula, need to be stored away from light, heat, and atmospheric oxygen. These elements can indeed react with the fatty acids in the oil to form undesirable compounds, such as free radicals, and impair the quality and safety of the calendula oil macerate. To prevent these issues, it is recommended to opt for calendula oil packaged in a opaque and airtight container.

Once opened, a calendula oil macerate can be preserved for six to twelve months. If you notice a change in its organoleptic characteristics before this date, it may indicate that its quality has deteriorated. When in doubt, it is better not to use it.

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• CORADINI C. Z. & al. Evaluation of biologically active compounds from Calendula officinalis flowers using spectrophotometry. Chemistry Central Journal (2012).

• JADHAV A. & al. A review on preparation of calendula oil. Sumerianz Journal of Medical and Healthcare (2023).