Known by its INCI name "Simmondsia Chinensis seed oil", jojoba vegetable oil is extracted from the oil-rich seeds of the jojoba plant, traditionally grown in Central America. It is considered a vegetable wax, as it solidifies at low temperatures. Due to its properties of sebum regulation and rebalancing, it is a component in many skin and hair care products.
What you need to know about jojoba oil.
Summary
Published on October 4, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
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Where does jojoba oil come from?
Simmondsia Chinensisis the botanical name for jojoba, a shrub native to Mexico and Arizona. Thanks to its roots that can stretch up to 30 metres, the jojoba or "wild hazelnut" is capable of capturing micro-moisture and resisting complete drought for 12 to 18 months. In the wild, it can produce 1 to 2 kilos of oilseeds from which the famous jojoba oil is extracted, a liquid wax at room temperature, by first cold pressing.
Centuries ago, indigenous people were already using this oil for its curative, beautifying (skin, hair), artisanal (candle making) and nutritional (a beverage similar to coffee) properties. Over the past two decades, this vegetable oil has enjoyed significant success in skin and hair care. This can be attributed to the fact that it has a sensory profile remarkably similar to "spermaceti" or whale fat, which has been banned in cosmetics for several years.
Its chemical composition is very similar to that of human sebum. This vegetable oil contains nearly 80% of monounsaturated fatty acids including erucic acid, oleic acid and gadoleic acid, as well as ceramides.
What are the cosmetic benefits of jojoba oil?
When applied topically, jojoba vegetable oil is recommended for various concerns.
By regulating sebum production, it is the ally of problematic oily skin.
The fatty acid composition of jojoba closely resembles that of human sebum. Therefore, the skin readily absorbs this vegetable oil, which strengthens the hydrolipidic film and regulates sebum flow. Thanks to its dry texture, it also has the advantage of leaving no oily residue.It is non-comedogenic (comedogenicity index = 0), meaning it does not clog pores and is an excellent ally for combination to oily skin types. Furthermore, studies have demonstrated its effectiveness as an anti-acne agent. As a liquid wax, it is capable of penetrating clogged follicles, which are the origin of comedones, and dissolving the sebum.
She takes care of dehydrated skin.
Thanks to the omega 9 and omega 6 fatty acids it provides to the skin, it strengthens the hydrolipidic film. This latter plays a protective role, in the sense that it maintains the skin's hydration level and fights against external aggressions. Jojoba vegetable oil is thus described as lipid-replenishing, it is recommended for taking care of dry and dehydrated skin.
It prevents oxidative stress and firms up mature skin.
Rich in vitamins E and C, jojoba oil is an excellent antioxidant treatment. To clarify, free radicals are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are subjected to stress, they produce these in excess. The sources of stress are numerous, the main ones being exposure to UVA, pollution, smoking, and a diet too high in fats and/or sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules due to their unpaired electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form an electron pair, thereby causing damage to the body's cells, DNA, and proteins. This accelerates ageing and results in the appearance of wrinkles on the skin's surface.
As an anti-inflammatory, it soothes skin prone to redness as well as certain skin conditions.
A study has thus demonstrated its effectiveness as a topical treatment for psoriasis. On the other hand, it soothes sunburn. The anti-inflammatory effect of jojoba oil is linked to the inhibition of cyclooxygenase II and lipoxygenase enzymes.
Are there any contraindications to the cosmetic use of jojoba oil?
No, none at all. Jojoba vegetable oil is tolerated by all skin and hair types. It does not have any contraindications. It is suitable for pregnant and breastfeeding women, as well as babies and young children.
In which Typology treatments can one find jojoba oil?
In ingredient lists, you may come across jojoba oil under the name "Simmondsia Chinensis seed oil". It is present in two of our botanical blends: theradiance botanical blendhelps to reveal the skin's radiance through the antioxidant and regenerative actions of 5 botanical extracts, while thepurifying botanical blendwithpeonypurifies and regenerates the skin during your sleep. These two night serums are applied at the end of your evening beauty routine, just before bedtime, on clean and dry skin. They are enriched with native plant cells that provide high biological activity.
Sources:
Heba A. Gad & al., Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses, and Toxicity, Polymers, (2021).
PAZYAR N & al. Jojoba in dermatology: a succinct review. Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia (2013).
