The DHA is the molecule found in the majority of self-tanning products. It allows for a tanned complexion without exposure to the sun. Here, we focus on its properties and functionalities in self-tanning products.
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How does Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) work?
Summary
- What exactly is Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)?
- How does DHA work?
- Find DHA in our self-tanning serum
- Are there any risks associated with the use of DHA?
- Sources
Published February 21, 2022,
updated on June 20, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
What exactly is Dihydroxyacetone (DHA)?
DHA is currently the main active ingredient in self-tanning products. Chemically, it is a sugar, more specifically a carbohydrate monomer with a molecular mass of 90.08 g/mol. This molecule, soluble in water and ethanol but insoluble in oil, can be of synthetic or plant origin. Natural DHA is usually derived from a biotechnological process that involves the steps of fermentation and bacterial bioconversion of glycerol extracted from beetroot.
In the 1960s, DHA was not favoured due to the unnatural orange hue it left on the skin. It only became popular in the 1980s because, when combined with erythrulose, it then provided a much more uniform and natural tan. The erythrulose is also a compound obtained through biotechnology. This natural sugar is present in plant cells, such as raspberries or beetroot in particular.
How does DHA work?
When applied to the skin, this tanning agent reacts with the amine functions carried by the amino acids present in the dead cells of the corneal layer to form pigments, known as melanoidins. The browning effect on the skin is a result of this reaction, referred to as the Maillard reaction.
Skin pigmentation appears within 2 to 6 hours following the application of a self-tanning product. However, this colour gradually fades, disappearing completely in 5 to 7 days. This phenomenon is due to the frequent renewal of the stratum corneum (a natural process of skin shedding). Therefore, this method of tanning without sun exposure does not trigger melanin production and thus offers no protective effect against UV radiation. Self-tanning does not equate to sun protection! Always remember to protect your skin using a sunscreen with broad spectrum to avoid the harmful effects of UV rays.
Find DHA in our self-tanning serum.
The self-tanning serum containing 10% DHA and carob pulp extract enhances the complexion just 12 hours after the first application for a gradual effect. The carob pulp present in the serum helps to maintain the healthy glow effect for longer. Unlike chemical self-tanners, Typology's self-tanning serum does not provide an artificial orange colouration.
Are there any risks associated with the use of DHA?
In self-tanning skincare products, DHA is regulated at a maximum concentration of 10%.
The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has stated that DHA present in self-tanning products does not pose a health risk to the consumer at a maximum concentration of 10%.
Furthermore,no scientific study has proven thatDHA penetrates the skin's protective barriers. It is not contraindicated for pregnant women.
On the other hand, a self-tanning product containing DHA can cause irritation if applied to sensitive areas of the body. That's why all body parts covered with mucous membranes should be free from self-tanner. Similarly, inhalation and ingestion of this type of care are discouraged. Indeed, this can cause asthma as well as DNA damage and cancer risks.
Furthermore, DHA can dry out the skin and increase its sensitivity to the sun. It's worth noting that this characteristic is often counterbalanced in self-tanning formulas by the presence of humectant compounds such as glycerine and/or sugar derivatives.To combat this potentially drying effect, ensure you hydrate your skin daily, morning and evening, both on the face and body.The face moisturising cream with 9 ingredients is enriched with hyaluronic acid and coconut oil. It's a minimalist formula that hydrates and nourishes the epidermis. Its light and non-greasy texture is suitable for dry, normal and combination skin, even sensitive ones. For the body, opt for the body moisturising cream with 10 ingredients, which hydrates all skin types, even sensitive ones.
Sources:
KOCHEVAR I. E. & al. Factors affecting sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone. British Journal of Dermatology (2003).
Opinion on DihydroxyacetoneTone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (2010).
CIRIMINNA R. & al. Dihydroxyacetone: An updated insight into a significant bioproduct. ChemistryOpen (2018).
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