Glycolic acid: can it overcome enlarged pores?

Pores are tiny openings in the skin through which sebum synthesised by the sebaceous glands reaches the epidermal surface to moisturise it and protect it from external aggressions. Their role is therefore essential, but occasionally they become more visible, giving the skin an uneven appearance. This dilation of the pores can be encouraged by several factors: excessive sebum production, which stretches the pore wall; accumulation of dead skin cells on its surface, which prevents its natural contraction; and loss of skin firmness due to ageing and sun exposure, which loosens the tissue around the pore. Consequently, pores appear enlarged and more noticeable, sometimes prone to the formation of blackheads.

A sound skincare routine, employing glycolic acid alongside other active ingredients, can help reduce the dilation of pores.

Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is recognised for its exfoliating properties and its ability to stimulate cellular renewal. In cases of enlarged pores, its action begins at the surface of the epidermis: the glycolic acid breaks the intercellular bonds between keratinocytes, facilitating the removal of accumulated dead cells. This exfoliating action reduces pore blockage, thereby limiting their dilation as well as the formation of blackheads. Beyond exfoliation, glycolic acid is also believed to act on the deeper structure of pores. Studies in vitro and in vivo have shown that glycolic acid can promote collagen production by fibroblasts, which helps enhance the firmness and tone of the skin around the pores. This improvement in the dermal structure may contribute to making pores appear visually tighter and improving the overall appearance of the skin.

Several studies conducted with patients suffering from acne have shown that the glycolic acid was not only an ally in treating blemishes, but could also reduce pore dilation. One study assessed the efficacy of a series of glycolic acid peels combined with at-home treatments containing 15% glycolic acid in 40 patients with moderate to severe acne. Participants received four peel sessions at 35% or 50%, depending on the severity of their acne, spaced three weeks apart. The results demonstrated a significant improvement in comedones, papules and pustules, as well as a reduction in pore dilation.

Another study evaluated the efficacy of glycolic acid chemical peels in reducing pore visibility in 22 women. The participants underwent five peeling sessions (30% glycolic acid) at two-week intervals. Numerical facial analysis showed that 86% of the participants experienced a significant reduction in the number of visible pores and that 72% had a reduction in the number of open pores (pores with a surface area between 0.3 and 0.6 mm²).

Glycolic acid chemical peels therefore appear to reduce the visibility and size of dilated pores.

• CHAN H.-L. & al. The effect of glycolic acid on the treatment of acne in Asian skin. Dermatologic Surgery (1997).

• MAIBACH H. & al. Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid. Dermatologic Surgery (1998).

• KUSUMOTO K. & al. A novel method to measure conspicuous facial pores using computer analysis of digital-camera-captured images: The effect of glycolic acid chemical peeling. Skin Research and Technology (2011).

• SHARAD J. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2013).