Glycolic acid, an effective active ingredient against pigmentation spots.

Pigmentation defects encompass skin pigmentation disorders , that is to say, hypopigmentation, depigmentation, and hyperpigmentation.

• Hypopigmentation refers to a disorder characterised by a reduction in melanin.

• Depigmentation refers to the complete absence of melanin on the surface, which leaves a white spot.

• Hyperpigmentation, on the other hand, pertains to the excessive production of melanin.

These spots can be located on the hands, face, décolletage, or arms, but can also be widespread. Pigmentation defects come in various types:

• The "age spots" or "solar spots", which result from prolonged and repeated exposure to the sun combined with a slowing down of cell renewal;

• pregnancy mask", "chloasmamelasma

• Thepost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which occurs after a trauma or skin injury, which is common in people with acne-prone skin;

• The freckles, of genetic origin, are generally associated with fair skin.

Glycolic acid peels serve to stimulate cellular renewal. Glycolic acid targets the corneocyte, responsible for the cohesion of cells in the stratum corneum. It promotes its degradation by reducing its cohesion, which causes a peeling. By breaking the bonds between the dead cells of the stratum corneum, this active ingredient allows them to be eliminated, thus revealing a smoother and more radiant complexion.

According to numerous studies, glycolic acid is effective in reducing the three main types of hyperpigmentation: sun spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory spots.

By penetrating deeply into the skin, this small-sized acid inhibits the overproduction of melanin. It thus regulates the action of melanocytes to prevent the pigments responsible for spots from marking the skin.

Note: The intensity of the peel is determined by the concentration of the acid, the formulation of the product, and the amount of treatment applied to the skin. In the majority of studies conducted on the action of glycolic acid against brown spots, this active ingredient was concentrated at more than 20%. Even though the cosmetic regulation does not indicate a maximum usage threshold for glycolic acid, it is rare to find a concentration higher than 20% in a skincare formula, due to the potential irritant nature of this fruit acid.

We have developed several skincare products based on glycolic acid, available in various concentrations.

• The exfoliating serum contains 10% glycolic acid. This concentration still allows for a relevant keratolytic effect; this serum will remove the dead cells present on the skin's surface, often loaded with melanin, to make way for less or non-pigmented cells located underneath. The complexion appears more uniform and luminous.

• The exfoliating toner contains 8% glycolic acid. This astringent lotion , with a pH level similar to that of the skin, rebalances the skin's pH after each cleansing. It also helps to remove the limestone residues present in the water during cleansing. Rich in exfoliating active ingredients, this lotion helps to refine the skin texture and eliminate dead skin cells.

• Brown spots can also appear on the body, particularly on areas frequently exposed to UV rays such as the hands and décolletage, or even areas prone to acne breakouts like the back. While showering, use our blemish-fighting gel Glycolic Acid 6% + Tea Tree Extract to deeply cleanse your skin.

• Employ our exfoliating night cream day after day to tighten pores, reduce the presence of blackheads, and restore skin radiance. Highly concentrated in A.H.A., it eliminates dead skin cells and provides a deep-cleansing action.

• The peeling mask purifies the pores, renews the skin, and evens out the complexion. Composed of an exfoliating complex, it eliminates dead skin cells and refines the skin texture. Used once or twice a week, it also helps to reduce the appearance of blemishes over time.

It should be noted, glycolic acid is a photosensitising active ingredient, it should only be used in the evening. Furthermore, due to its small size and acidic nature, it is not recommended for sensitive skin.

• Jaishree Sharad, Glycolic Acid Peel Therapy - A Current Review, Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol.(2013).

• Fartasch M, Teal J, Menon GK. Mechanism of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: ultrastructural and functional assessment of the epidermal barrier.Arch Dermatol Res.(1997).

• Javaheri SM, Handa S, Kaur I, Kumar B. Safety and efficacy of glycolic acid facial peel in Indian women with melasma.Int J Dermatol.(2001).

• Burns RL, Prevost-Blank PL, Lawry MA, Lawry TB, Faria DT, Fivenson DP. Glycolic acid peels for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in black patients. A comparative study.Dermatol Surg.(1997).