Foot peeling: what are we talking about?

Similar to a peeling mask for the face, foot peeling is a treatment that allows you to renew your skin. More specifically, it accelerates cellular renewal and eliminates dead cells accumulated on the skin's surface. The action of foot peels is enabled by their richness in exfoliating chemical agents such as alpha-hydroxy acids or AHAs (lactic acid, glycolic acid...) and beta-hydroxy acids or BHAs (salicylic acid...). These molecules work by penetrating the horny layer and breaking the bonds between keratinised cells, thus revealing smoother and softer skin. Foot peeling is primarily used to treat calluses, dry and rough areas, and to improve the overall appearance of the feet.

Note : Foot peeling should be differentiated from exfoliation. The former has a chemical keratolytic action, while the latter operates mechanically and relies on the use of granules. Applied in circular motions, exfoliation lifts dead cells from the epidermis.

The feet are among the areas of the body where the skin is thickest. Indeed, the skin cells in this area have a rapid division cycle, in response to the numerous pressures and frictions endured by the feet. This characteristic allows the skin of the feet to be better protected. However, long hikes or wearing unsuitable shoes can cause excessive thickening, which is both painful and unsightly. The use of a foot peel can then prove relevant to improve the skin's texture and soften rough areas.

Furthermore, with each application, foot peeling can help to reduce corns, calluses and hard skin that result from the pressures and friction of walking. By gradually eliminating the dead cells accumulated on the feet, the exfoliating agents used in foot peels decrease the size and hardness of calluses. Moreover, by reducing the thickness of the horny layer, foot peels help to prevent cracks and fissures that appear when the skin becomes very dry and rough. Finally, by improving the aesthetics of the feet, peels contribute to increasing self-confidence, especially during the months when the feet are most exposed, such as in summer.

It is indeed noteworthy that a study has demonstrated the benefits of using a solution composed of 1% cantharidin, 30% salicylic acid, and 5% podophyllin, in conjunction with mechanical excision, on 72 patients suffering from corns. By activating the serine protease enzyme, the solution was able to break the connections between the desmosomes, thus promoting skin exfoliation and the removal of corns. After just one session, 57 patients observed the complete disappearance of their corn. A second application was necessary for nine patients, a third for five, and only one patient had to undergo the treatment four times. No side effects or complications were observed during the study.

If foot peeling can be effective for mild to moderate hyperkeratosis, it is not sufficient to treat deeper calluses, corns and hard skin. These require to be removed by a podiatrist.

Foot peels most commonly come in the form of disposable socks, soaked in an exfoliating solution. Before putting them on, ensure your feet are clean and dry. Once this check is done, you can immerse your feet in the socks, which may or may not need to be cut depending on the model and brand. After putting them on, it is necessary to wait approximately one hour for the peel to penetrate the skin. Then thoroughly rinse your feet. Indeed, inadequate rinsing significantly increases the risk of irritation.

The results of foot peels are not immediate and are typically felt after four to five days. Beyond this period, the skin gently begins to crack and peel, in a rather striking manner. This "shedding" then continues for three to five days, sometimes requiring adjustments to daily routines. Indeed, it can be quite challenging to expose one's feet in open shoes during this period, due to the visible flaking caused by the peel. Once all the dead cells have fallen off, the roughness of the feet is significantly reduced and the feet appear smooth and soft.

Often accused of weakening the skin barrier, the foot peeling is not dangerous, provided that you choose your product wisely and follow the usage instructions. Indeed, foot peeling masks are formulated with high concentrations of exfoliating agents and should therefore be used exclusively on this area where the skin is thicker. To avoid irritation, it is important not to leave the treatment on longer than indicated on the instructions and not to use it on weakened feet or those with a wound or blister.

Furthermore, while exfoliating one's feet can be beneficial, it is not recommended to do it too often. Once or twice a month is more than enough. Indeed, unlike facial peeling masks which can generally be applied on a weekly basis, foot peels are highly concentrated and result in significant exfoliation. The horny layer in this area is naturally thick because it is heavily used and has a defensive role. To avoid jeopardising this protective function, it is important not to try to thin it out excessively.

• AKIN Y. & al. New alternative in callus treatment. The Journal of Dermatology (2011).

• HASHMI F. & al. Characterising the biophysical properties of normal and hyperkeratotic foot skin. Journal of Foot and Ankle Research (2015).

• BLONSKA-FAJFROWSKA B. & co. The Impact of Callus and Corns Removal Procedures on Foot Geometry Parameters, Foot Pressure, and Reduction of Foot Pain in Women. Applied Sciences (2023).