Foot peeling mask: is it dangerous?

Often overlooked, the skin on the feet is nevertheless highly stressed. The simple act of walking or standing exerts pressure and friction on the plantar arch. To protect the feet, the differentiation of keratinocytes accelerates, causing the thickening of the horny layer. Unsightly and sometimes painful, the accumulation of corneocytes can be eliminated by resorting to a foot peel. Most often presented in the form of socks to be worn, this type of treatment works by exfoliating the upper layer of the epidermis. It indeed causes the detachment of dead cells by reducing their adhesion to the horny layer, thus promoting cell renewal and the achievement of soft feet.

To achieve this result, the products utilise keratolytic agents, most commonly AHA's such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, BHA's like salicylic acid, or even urea. The skin on the feet is naturally thicker than that of the face (up to 6 mm for the heels compared to approximately 2 mm for the face), hence the concentration of exfoliating molecules in foot peels is often higher than that in facial care products, which concerns some individuals. Moreover, the "sock" format of foot peels implies that the exfoliating substance is applied under occlusion, which significantly enhances its effectiveness, but also its potential to irritate.

Used in excess, AHAs and BHAs can disrupt the epidermal barrier and the hydrolipidic film. This film can then no longer fulfil its protective role against external aggressions, such as temperature variations or bacterial colonisation. What's more, the skin on the feet is naturally thick because it has a defensive function. Exfoliation that is too intense or too frequent is therefore not recommended and can cause pain when walking, due to the sudden fragility of the epidermis on the feet.

However, when they are well-formulated and provided they are used correctly, foot peels do not pose any danger. Here are some tips for safe use:

• Adhere to the application time : Firstly, it is crucial to adhere to the application time for the foot masks as indicated on the instructions. Indeed, prolonged contact between the peeling substance and the skin of the feet increases the risk of irritation.

• Pay attention to the application method : Some peelings are formulated for the entire foot, while others should only be applied to a specific area, such as the sole of the foot for instance. In the former case, the concentration of exfoliating agents is usually not uniform across the entire mask, in order to cater to the different needs of the areas. Indeed, the top of the foot, being thinner, cannot be treated in the same way as the heel, which is thicker. To avoid weakening the most sensitive areas, it is advisable to apply the mask according to the instructions provided.

• Avoid exfoliating weakened feet : Warmth, redness, small wounds, cuts or blisters? It's better to postpone your peeling session to avoid further irritating the delicate skin.

• Avoid over-exfoliation : To prevent stripping the hydrolipidic film and weakening the skin barrier, it is recommended not to exceed one to two foot peelings per month. Similarly, if your feet do not show signs of hyperkeratosis, it may not be necessary to exfoliate them.

• Properly hydrating your feet : In the days following a peeling session, it is recommended to hydrate and nourish your feet using a rich cream. In addition to helping restore the skin's hydrolipidic balance, this action serves to protect the feet, which are weakened by the peeling, from external aggressions.

Foot peeling is a sporadic treatment that should only be reserved for calloused feet or those that are very thickened.