Astaxanthin: Origin, Properties and Uses.

Profile: Astaxanthin

Commonly known as: Astaxanthin, dihydroxy-3,3' dioxo-4,4' β-carotene.

I.N.C.I. list name: Extract of Haematococcus Pluvialis.

Extraction process: Supercritical CO2 extraction of biomass from organic farming micro-algae without the use of organic solvents.

Source: Plant-based.

Botanical name: Haematococcus pluvialis (freshwater green micro-algae).

Family: Phytoplankton.

Extracted part of the plant: Microalgae.

Origin, provenance: France.

Chemical properties: Terpenoid; Molecular mass: 596.84 g/mol; Insoluble in water; Soluble in fats.

Properties: Emulsion, true aqueous solution, gel.

Required dosage in cosmetic products: Unregulated; in the range of 0.1 to 2%.

Function: Antioxidant.

Specificities: Antioxidant, SPF enhancer, soothing, protective, anti-inflammatory, firming.

Benefits: All skin types, particularly those exposed to external aggressions.

Properties

Anti-inflammatory: Reducing the level of pro-inflammatory cytokines by inhibiting the synthesis of NF-kB signalling pathway activity, thereby reducing skin irritations;
Antioxidant: Preserving cellular structures from oxidative stress by intercepting the free radicals generated, in addition to preventing the peroxidation of phospholipids and lipids of the skin's cellular membrane, thanks to its ability to bind within cellular and mitochondrial membranes;
Protector: Creating a shield around skin cells to limit the impact of free radicals, thanks to its ability to cross physiological membranes due to its unique biochemical structure;
Firming: Increasing the level of TIMP-1 inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinases, allowing the skin to maintain its elasticity and firmness;
SPF Booster: Enhancing the level of protection of sunscreens, without however having the ability to replace UV filters.

Astaxanthin is a red, fat-soluble pigment from the xanthophylls family (carotenoids). It was first isolated from lobster by KUHN in 1938. Its structure was discovered by Professor Basil WEEDON in 1975. He determined that, unlike other carotenoids, astaxanthin does not convert into vitamin A in the body. Indeed, it is not a pro-vitamin A like beta-carotene. It is particularly known for its high antioxidant power against singlet oxygen: several thousand times higher than vitamin C, and several hundred times higher than vitamin E and coenzyme Q10. It is even estimated that the physical performances of wild salmon when they swim upstream against the current come from the virtues of this super-carotenoid. For cosmetic applications, the astaxanthin used is generally extracted from a unicellular freshwater micro-algae (Haematococcus pluvialis), which has the particularity of synthesising astaxanthin in large quantities up to 40,000 ppm.