Astaxanthin to combat acne?

Acne is a non-contagious skin condition affecting the face and back. It results from dysfunction of the pilosebaceous follicles, marked by comedones, blackheads or inflammatory lesions. Three main factors contribute to its development: excess sebum production (hyperseborrhoea), pore obstruction from keratinocyte accumulation (hyperkeratosis), and proliferation of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes.

Indeed, an accumulation of sebum, particularly when rich in oxidised squalene or free fatty acids from triglyceride hydrolysis, can be comedogenic and clog skin pores, causing spots. Furthermore, C. acnes, which feeds on sebum, releases enzymes and inflammatory mediators that can exacerbate acne and push it into an inflammatory stage, with the development of papules and pustules.

Unlike common misconceptions, acne is not caused by poor hygiene. In most cases, this condition has a hormonal origin.

The astaxanthin is a potent natural antioxidant from the carotenoid family. It is produced by certain microalgae, for example Haematococcus pluvialis, and accumulates in marine organisms such as krill, shrimp, salmon, or shellfish. In skincare, astaxanthin shows growing interest for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that may support acne-prone skin.

What about astaxanthin’s antioxidant properties in addressing acne?

One of the key mechanisms in acne involves dysseborrhoea, that is, an alteration in sebum quality. This change is particularly marked by a deficiency in vitamin E, an essential liposoluble antioxidant that protects squalene, a major sebum component, against oxidation. Without this protection, squalene is oxidised by free radicals into squalene peroxide, a potent comedogen. This alters sebum fluidity, promotes pore blockage and exacerbates or even triggers acne.

Astaxanthin, whose antioxidant capacity is estimated to exceed that of vitamin E (up to 500 times under certain conditions), may partly offset this deficit. By neutralising reactive oxygen species, it may help limit sebum lipid oxidation and preserve cell membrane integrity. Astaxanthin may act upstream of the inflammatory process and prevent formation of comedones.

What is known about astaxanthin’s anti-inflammatory properties against acne?

Acne-prone skin shows elevated levels of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), enzymes involved in collagen breakdown and persistent inflammation. Astaxanthin has demonstrated the ability to inhibit the production of MMP-1 and MMP-3, as well as pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β and TNF-α, known to amplify inflammatory lesions. This mechanism relies on inhibition of the NF-κB signalling pathway, a central transcription factor in the inflammatory response. By preventing IκB kinase activation, astaxanthin keeps NF-κB inactive in the cytoplasm, preventing expression of pro-inflammatory genes linked to worsened acne lesions.

Although the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of astaxanthin may be relevant for acne-prone skin, this ingredient does not act on excessive sebum production or follicular hyperkeratinisation, two key mechanisms in acne lesion development. Most studies were conducted in vitro or on animal models. No clinical study demonstrates the benefits of topical astaxanthin in acne. Its use should be considered a complement, not a single solution. Regarding oral intake, one study has examined this.

This randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in 34 patients with inflammatory acne (papulopustular forms) assessed the effect of oral astaxanthin at 4 mg/day alongside standard treatment (0.025 % topical tretinoin and 1.2 % clindamycin) on serum E-selectin levels, an adhesion molecule involved in skin inflammation. After one month of treatment, No significant difference was observed in E-selectin levels, either within the treated group or compared with placebo. These findings suggest that oral astaxanthin does not provide a measurable anti-inflammatory benefit for this biomarker.

Acne is a medical concern. If your symptoms persist, last, or cause concern, we recommend consulting a dermatologist. Cosmetic treatments may help with minor or temporary blemishes but cannot replace dermatological treatment.

• DHANKHAR J. & al. Astaxanthin : A potential carotenoid. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2012).

• NAME J. J. & al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms of action of astaxanthin in cardiovascular diseases (review). International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2020).

• PAMUNGKASARI E. P. & al. A randomised controlled trial: The effect of oral astaxanthin as an anti-inflammatory agent on serum level of e-selectin in acne vulgaris. Bali Medical Journal (2020).