Is astaxanthin associated with side effects?

The astaxanthin is a liposoluble natural pigment from the carotenoid family. With a colour ranging from orange-red to pink, it is responsible for the colouration of many seafoods. Indeed, it can be found in krill, crustaceans, plankton, salmon, pink bream and trout. However, its main natural source is a micro-algae, called Haematococcus pluvialis.

The astaxanthin used at Typology is of plant origin and comes from the unicellular algae Haematococcus pluvialis.

Astaxanthin shares many metabolic and physiological characteristics with beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, and lutein, other molecules belonging to the carotenoid family. However, the presence of hydroxyl and carbonyl groups in its chemical structure gives it higher antioxidant properties than other carotenoids. Furthermore, astaxanthin has the unique feature of never becoming pro-oxidant and does not convert into vitamin A in the body. Thanks to its strong antioxidant potential, this active ingredient has earned a prominent place in the field of skincare, particularly contributing to preventing skin ageing.

As of now, there are no known side effects associated with the topical use of astaxanthine.

This compound is suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive. Numerous clinical studies have been conducted to assess the effectiveness of astaxanthin in combating various skin issues, such as skin dehydration or visible wrinkles and fine lines. Among these studies, those conducted by Seki and Virgianti and their respective teams, with eleven and fifteen volunteers, can be mentioned. The researchers not only noted an improvement in skin hydration and suppleness, but also a lack of adverse effects.

Furthermore, SEKI conducted a parallel patch test on 45 volunteers to assess the skin tolerance of a cream containing 5% astaxanthin compared to a control cream, without active ingredients. Both formulations were applied under occlusion on the inner side of the individuals' arms for 24 hours. The skin condition was then evaluated 30 minutes after the removal of the dressing, and again 24 hours later, which is 48 hours after the application.

• For the control cream without astaxanthin, no adverse effects were observed in 42 participants. Two individuals experienced mild irritations after 24 hours, while a third participant developed a reaction after 48 hours. In the first two individuals, a dermatitis caused by the dressing was noted, suggesting that the irritation spread to the tested areas. The overall skin irritation index was estimated at 3.3.

• For the cream containing 5% astaxanthin, 43 subjects showed no reaction. The same two individuals displayed signs of irritation at 24 and 48 hours. Once again, the dermatitis appears to be linked to a reaction to the dressing. The overall irritation index was lower and was assessed at 2.2.

These findings suggest that the addition of astaxanthin to the formulation did not increase the irritant potential of the cream and may have even improved its tolerance.

Even though astaxanthin is generally well-tolerated, it is possible to be allergic to astaxanthin. Certain skin types show a sensitivity to the Haematococcus pluvialis, the primary natural source of astaxanthin. Therefore, to ensure that you are not allergic to astaxanthin, we advise you to carry out a tolerance test beforehand. To do this:

1. Apply a small amount of the product in the crook of your elbow, on your wrist, or behind your ear.

2. Wait 24 hours and observe the area. If it shows no signs of irritation, this indicates that your skin tolerates the astaxanthin or the product containing it well. However, if you experience warming, blisters, itching, redness, or any other allergic reaction, immediately stop using the product.

• SEKI T. & al. Effects of astaxanthin from Haematococcus pluvialis on human skin-patch test; skin repeated application test; effect on wrinkle reduction. Flavour and Fragrance Journal (2001).

• GARCIA-GONZALEZ M. & al. Outdoor cultivation of microalgae for carotenoid production: Current state and perspectives. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology (2007).

• VIRGIANTI D. P. & al. Formulation and Evaluation of Radiance Serum Containing Astaxanthin–Zeaxanthin Nanoemulsions as an Anti-Wrinkle Agent: Stability, Ex Vivo, and In Vivo Assessments. Cosmetics (2024).