What are the benefits of astaxanthin on the skin?

Over time, the skin gradually loses its firmness. This skin sagging is largely due to the decrease in the synthesis of collagen, a protein essential to the architecture of the dermis. Present in the form of fibres, collagen plays a central role in tissue regeneration, their elasticity, and resistance. It forms a dense matrix that acts as a support mesh. When collagen production slows down, the skin's framework loses its strength, which is manifested by a decrease in its flexibility and firmness and the appearance of wrinkles.

The astaxanthin has shown promising potential in the stimulation of collagen and the preservation of the dermal extracellular matrix. Studies in vitro have revealed that this molecule is capable of increasing the expression of TIMP-1 (Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinases-1), a natural inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinases. These are enzymes that degrade the structural proteins of the dermis, such as collagen. By inhibiting the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 at the messenger RNA level, while promoting that of TIMP-1, astaxanthin helps to limit the degradation of collagen.

Several studies have highlighted the firming effect of astaxanthin. Among the most recent is one conducted by VIRGIANTI with fifteen women, averaging 42 years of age. For 28 days, these volunteers applied a nanoemulsion of astaxanthin and zeaxanthin, another pigment from the carotenoid family, twice daily. At the end of the four weeks, a reduction in wrinkles ranging from 80% to 93% was measured. This decrease was observed in both younger and older individuals, demonstrating the serum's effectiveness for all age groups.

Inflammation is a standard response of the immune system to an attack: UV rays, pollution, pathogens, or oxidative stress. However, when it becomes chronic, it damages the skin barrier, promotes the emergence of redness and irritation, and accelerates skin ageing, a phenomenon known as inflamm'aging. Therefore, there is growing interest in active ingredients capable of modulating the inflammatory response without completely cancelling it, such as astaxanthin.

Indeed, astaxanthin operates both upstream, on cellular activation signals, and downstream, on inflammation mediators. Studies have shown that this molecule inhibits the activity of IκB kinase, an enzyme essential for the activation of the transcription factor NF-κB. This factor is involved in the regulation of numerous pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-1β, IL-6 or TNF-α. By blocking the activation of this pathway, astaxanthin keeps NF-κB in the cytoplasm, in an inactive state, thus preventing the transcription of pro-inflammatory genes. Astaxanthin also reduces the expression of matrix metalloproteinases, enzymes not only involved in collagen degradation, but also in the propagation of inflammation in skin tissues.

Beyond its antioxidant role, astaxanthin helps to maintain the integrity of skin tissues and the skin's barrier function. Therefore, it is a beneficial ingredient for sensitive skin or skin that is easily prone to redness.