Facial redness: what can be done to reduce it?

Here is a non-exhaustive list of anti-inflammatory agents found in certain skincare products.

• The Beta-glucan

  Derived from bacteria, this active ingredient is a natural polysaccharide (long sugar molecule) composed entirely of glucose units. It regulates at the source the factors responsible for unpleasant skin reactions and reactivates the micro-circulation of blood. It also reduces skin hypersensitivity by stimulating the self-defence capabilities of the skin barrier and accelerating the skin repair process, while also possessing strong hydrating properties.

  To soothe skin prone to temporary and diffuse redness, and to put an end to discomfort and tingling, we have developed the soothing serum, a true ally for reactive and fragile skin. Unscented, its formulation, built around the soothing properties of beta-glucan, is 99% of natural origin and does not include any harsh substances for reactive skin. Although it helps to immediately and lastingly calm the sensations of heat and tightness in sensitive skin, there is no such thing as zero allergy risk. However, everything has been done to minimise the risks of skin reactions.

• The Centella asiatica

  The saponosides present in the Centella asiatica soothe and repair the epidermis. Indeed, these molecules contribute to the renovation of the hydrolipidic film of the skin, thus allowing it to maintain its hydration. At the same time, they act on redness and irritations. In cases of severe desquamation, a topical application of Centella asiatica thus regulates the production of keratinocytes (epithelial cell responsible for the appearance of scales).

• The bisabolol

  This is an active plant extract isolated from the essential oil of German chamomile, to which anti-inflammatory, healing, and soothing properties for the skin are attributed. It improves the appearance of damaged skin and restores suppleness.

• Theaqueous extract of liquorice (INCI name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract)

  Enriched with glabridin, one of the isoflavonoids with proven anti-inflammatory potential, liquorice extract is effective both in vitro andin vivo. It inhibits the activation of MAPKs (Mitogen-Activated Protein Kinases that lead to the activation of several transcription factors which in turn activate the transcription of various inflammatory genes) and the translocation of NF-kB into the nucleus (the main transcription factor involved in the inflammatory response), as well as the modulation of the expression of various pro-inflammatory mediators (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6).

  Theliquorice extract also contains a significant amount of glycyrrhizic acid (saponin), which also contributes to its anti-inflammatory action. Indeed,a study has shown that the effects of glycyrrhizic acid were so similar to desoxycorticosterone, a molecule known for its anti-inflammatory action in pharmacy, that it is even referred to as natural cortisone. Thus, liquorice extract soothes irritated skin, redness, as well as itching.

Generally, redness and heightened skin sensitivity can be attributed to a compromised protective skin barrier function. The skin then becomes permeable to potentially irritating agents (microorganisms, allergens, pollutants, etc...) and becomes irritated. To regain skin without tightness or redness, certain ingredients are recommended such as vegetable oils or lipid-replenishing compounds. For example, you could use:

• Hazelnut Vegetable Oil

  Thehazelnut vegetable oil, due to its strong penetrating power, is an excellent moisturising, nourishing and softening oil. The skin will then become more supple and softer. Moreover, it does not leave a greasy sensation on the surface. Restorative, it will also promote the regeneration of the skin's hydrolipidic film, which will help to soften the skin and protect it from external aggressions. As a regulator of sebum secretion, thehazelnut oil will even tighten the skin's pores to prevent any infections that would threaten the skin's balance. However, this oil is contraindicated for people allergic to hazelnuts.

• Squalane

  Squalane is a non-greasy oil with a dry touch that quickly penetrates the epidermis.Itis often referred to as anactive emollient. Not only does it soften the skin, but it also prevents the epidermis from dehydrating.Its biomimetic structure with sebum allows it to repair the hydrolipidic film, thereby strengthening the skin's barrier function and preventing the body's water from evaporating. The skin remains hydrated for longer and the feelings of tightness common to atopic skin are reduced.

• Thehemp oil

  Numerous cellular and animal studies have demonstrated that hemp possesses anti-inflammatory properties. Indeed, due to its richness in omega-3, hemp oil can soothe irritated skin, as well as redness and inflammation, by inhibiting signalling pathways that induce the synthesis of pro-inflammatory molecules. This property is associated with the nourishing, hydrating and softening effects of the oil, thus helping to alleviate skin irritations thanks to its rich composition in omega-3 and 6, fatty acids that play a major role in the function of the skin barrier.

If you experience excessive redness, do not hesitate to consult a doctor! Only they will be able to identify the type of skin condition you are suffering from (eczema, dermatomyositis, seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, urticaria...). They will then choose an appropriate treatment such as corticosteroids or they may guide you towards aesthetic medicine techniques (vascular laser, Flash lamps, Kleresca photo-modulation...).

• CARMICHAEL M. D. & al. Immune modulating effects of β-glucan. Current Opinion in Clinical Nutrition and Metabolic Care (2010).

• PRAKOESWA C. R. S. & al. Role of Centella asiatica and ceramide in skin barrier improvement: a double blind clinical trial of Indonesian batik workers. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology (2012).

• CHEN S-M. & al. Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia (2013).

• MAIBACH H. & al. Sensitive skin: an overview. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2013).

• BAWANKULE D. U. & al. α-(-)-bisabolol reduces pro-inflammatory cytokine production and ameliorates skin inflammation. Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology (2014).

• XU B. & al. Skin health promotion effects of natural beta-glucan derived from cereals and microorganisms: a review. Phytotherapy Research (2014).

• PYTKOWSKA K. & al. Moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences (2016).

• FRATTARUOLO L. & al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes: identification of licoflavanone as a modulator of NF-kB/MAPK pathway. Antioxidants (Basel) (2019).