The Benefits of Licorice Root for Skin.

The extract of licorice contains a significant amount of glycyrrhizic acid. This natural saponin gives licorice its sweet taste. It is thus used as a sweetener. Moreover, a study showed that the effects of glycyrrhizic acid were close to deoxycorticosterone, a molecule known for its anti-inflammatory action in pharmacy. The extract of licorice root benefits skin with irritation and redness and relieves itching. It is particularly effective on atopic skins. It is even qualified as a natural cortisone: it relieves eczema effectively.

Pigment spots often impact the evenness of skin tone. Some may appreciate them and even want to show them off, but they can also be a source of discomfort in the lives of those affected. By definition, hyperpigmentation is due to a disturbance in the pigmentation process. In other words, melanin is overproduced in certain areas. This leads to the appearance of spots that can be classified into three categories: melasma or pregnancy mask, related to hormonal imbalances; solar lentigo or sun spots, due to excessive and repeated exposure to the sun; and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is the result of an overproduction of melanin after an inflammation (wounds, burns, blemishes, acne outbreaks).

Licorice root for skin with hyperpigmentation is often referred to as a natural hydroquinone because of its pigment regulating benefits. It comes with the advantage of being gentler and better tolerated by the skin than hydroquinone, which has been banned in all cosmetic products by European regulations since 2001 due to its carcinogenic potential.

The benefits of licorice root for skin blemishes and marks is due to the presence of glabridine, a powerful depigmenting agent known for its lightening virtues. It acts by inhibiting tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The equation is simple: less melanin means less pigment, fewer brown spots and a more even skin tone.

Note: At Typology, we use “Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract”. Rich in over 95% glabridine, it inhibits melanin, hence its anti-spot properties. Nevertheless, from licorice, it is also possible to extract glycyrrhizic acid (INCI name: Glycyrrhizic Acid). This compound has contradictory properties compared to “Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract”. Indeed, it is qualified as pro-melanin, i.e., it stimulates melanogenesis at the origin of tanning. It is therefore often found in self-tanning products.