Eye Contour: Does Glycolic Acid Counteract Dark Circles?

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane, is widely utilised in skincare owing to its exfoliating properties. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin, breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and encouraging cell turnover. This mechanism can result in a brighter complexion and reduced pigmentation, making glycolic acid a potential remedy for dark circles caused by hyperpigmentation. The exfoliating action removes the accumulation of dead skin cells that can make the skin appear dull, uneven and darker in tone. By promoting the shedding of this outer layer, glycolic acid reveals new, healthier skin beneath. This process of skin cell renewal helps unveil a more radiant and uniform complexion, diminishing the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation and discolouration, including dark circles under the eyes.

Regular exfoliation with glycolic acid can also improve overall skin texture, rendering it smoother and softer. The removal of dead skin cells can enhance the skin’s ability to absorb other skincare ingredients, making treatments for hydration or pigmentation more effective.

Additionally, glycolic acid has the property of inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme pivotal in melanin production. As excessive melanin synthesis can lead to hyperpigmentation, by blocking tyrosinase activity, glycolic acid interferes with its biosynthetic pathway, thereby diminishing the appearance of dark circles beneath the eyes. By combining its exfoliating effect with its capacity to curb melanin formation, glycolic acid delivers a dual-action treatment for dark circles: it unveils brighter, healthier-looking skin while actively preventing the development of new pigmentation.

It is important to note the aforementioned properties of glycolic acid specifically target dark circles resulting from hyperpigmentation (excess melanin). Conversely, vascular dark circles, which arise from thinning skin that reveals underlying blood vessels, may actually be exacerbated by exfoliation, as this can further reduce dermal thickness. As for structural dark circles, which stem from the innate contour or hollowness of the area, they are generally not amenable to improvement via topical glycolic acid treatments.

A study carried out by An and Kim (2020) assessed the efficacy of eye patches containing 1% and 3% glycolic acid in reducing dark circles. Thirty women were divided into three groups (control, 1% GA and 3% GA), with the patches applied twice weekly for four weeks. The study measured changes in melanin, erythema (redness) and dark circle colour over time. The results showed that both GA concentrations reduced pigmentation, with significant improvements in lightness (L*) values. The 3% GA group showed a greater reduction in pigmentation than the 1% GA group, although melanin and erythema levels decreased in both.

Another study by Dayal et al. (2016) compared the efficacy of glycolic acid, ferulic acid and lactic acid chemical peels in treating periorbital hyperpigmentation. The trial involved 90 patients, divided into three cohorts, each receiving one of the peels. Glycolic acid (20 %) demonstrated the greatest efficacy, with outstanding assessments from both clinicians and patients. Although ferulic acid proved to be a safer alternative with fewer adverse effects, glycolic acid remained the most effective in reducing periorbital hyperpigmentation.

Glycolic acid and the periocular region: are there any safety considerations to bear in mind?

Glycolic acid is generally regarded as safe at low concentrations, although higher concentrations can cause irritation, particularly around the delicate eye area. In the study referred to, side effects such as erythema and itching were observed when performing a chemical peel with 20% glycolic acid, but these did not require cessation of treatment. Individuals with sensitive skin should consult a dermatologist before using products containing high concentrations of glycolic acid near the eyes to prevent adverse reactions.

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• SAHU P. & al. Ferulic acid 12% peel: An innovative peel for constitutional type of periorbital melanosis—Comparing clinical efficacy and safety with 20% glycolic peel and 15% lactic peel. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2016).

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