Do self-tanners accentuate brown spots?

When the skin is prone to brown spots on the face, the first step to take is to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, lest you end up later with a multitude of brown spots. Indeed, UV rays and the free radicals they generate are one of the primary causes of the appearance of brown spots. Therefore, to achieve a tanned complexion without exposing oneself to the sun at any time of the year, we are more likely to use a self-tanner. However, this can exacerbate the pigmentation problem. The self-tanner will intensify the existing browning, especially if they are diffuse, by further increasing the contrast between the spots and the skin.

Self-tanning products contain active ingredients (dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, etc.) that, when reacting with the proteins present in the upper layer of the epidermis, induce a surface browning chemical reaction and generate brown pigments (called melanoidins), giving the epidermis a tanned complexion. This colouration disappears gradually as the horny layer is eliminated. Thus, the problem is that these pigments will also act on pigmented spots, increasing their colouration and therefore the contrast. To avoid exacerbating this already visible pigmentation disorder and hope for a uniform tan through a self-tanner, it is essential to first reduce the appearance of existing spots.

How to reduce pigmentation irregularities on the face?

The daily use of a skin-evening serum enriched with depigmenting active ingredients helps to fade brown marks present on the skin of your face or to anticipate them, for instance during pregnancy or during a photosensitising medical treatment. These formulas inhibit the rise of melanin and reduce the appearance of spots. They will reverse the skin's pigmentation system to gradually fade the appearance of spots. The results will not be immediate: effectiveness only appears after 6 to 8 weeks. It all depends on the age of the spots.

There are various strategies designed to limit the appearance and proliferation of brown spots, or even prevent them:

1. Strengthening prevention: during the day, it is crucial to always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF30, and this throughout the year. Indeed, UVA and UVB rays contribute to increasing the activity of melanocytes;

2. Promoting desquamation: the exfoliating treatments facilitate the removal of melanin-pigmented dead cells on the skin surface to prevent spots from worsening and becoming long-term. This is one of the main modes of action of fruit acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid), PHAs (gluconolactone...) and exfoliating retinoids. Moreover, they also increase the skin penetration of depigmenting molecules to act at the level of the melanosomes;

3. Limiting oxidative stress: Oxidation can also trigger pigmentation phenomena. Therefore, it is necessary to combat these free radicals induced by tobacco, UV rays, pollution... with the help of anti-radical substances, including vitamin C, ferulic acid, etc.;

4. Inhibiting melanogenesis: there are several types of mechanisms to halt the rise of pigment: either by blocking the melanin synthesis pathway through the inhibition of tyrosinase expression by enzymatic competition, blocking active sites, suppressing its synthesis or maturation (azelaic acid, α-arbutin, retinoids, certain plant extracts such as Japanese mulberry extract, liquorice extract, etc.), or by blocking the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes (niacinamide).