Produits avec un FPS.

Which products can contain an SPF?

Sun protection is essential to shield skin from UV rays. Sunscreen cream was the only option. Products with SPF come in various forms. Which ones? We review them in this article.

SPF: what lies behind this concept?

Introduced in the 1960s by Franz GREITER, the acronym FPS is the abbreviation for “Facteur de Protection Solaire”. In English, it is called SPF (Sunburn Protection Factor). The abbreviation IP, for Indice de Protection, is used in some French-speaking countries. All these acronyms refer to the same value.

SPF is a numerical indicator of a sunscreen’s effectiveness at blocking erythema-inducing UV rays that cause sunburn.

SPF is generally expressed on a scale from 2 to 50+, the latter representing the highest level of protection. The number following the SPF label indicates the percentage of erythemal UV rays blocked. Several factors can affect the level of protection provided by sunscreens: UV intensity at a given time and place, phototype, the amount of sunscreen applied, activities such as swimming, certain medications, and the frequency of reapplication of sunscreen. This is why even a product with a high SPF must be applied liberally and regularly to maintain optimal protection.

FPSPercentage of erythema-causing UV radiation blocked
SPF 2
FPS 15
SPF 20
SPF 30` tags and keep `96,7%
FPS 50… 98%
FPS 8098,75%
FPS 10099%
Amount of erythema-inducing UV radiation blocked according to SPF.
Source: Silva dos Reis V. M. et al. Sun protection factor: meaning and controversies. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2011)

Primary UV filters, the components directly regulated by SPF.

Primary sun protection products shield the skin from UV rays, unlike secondary-function SPF formulations, where sun protection is a secondary benefit.

A range of sun-care products features a primary sun protection factor (SPF):

  • Facial and body sunscreens : The sunscreens are the most common SPF product formats. Their texture may range from fluid to greasy, depending on the UV filters they contain and the skin type they target. For example, dry skin benefits from a rich formulation, while combination or oily skin prefers a fluid sunscreen or a gel-cream texture.

  • Sun sticks : Sun sticks are portable and fit in a bag. They are useful for reapplying sun protection during the day or targeting sensitive areas such as the lips and tattoos. Note, however, that sun sticks tend to be rich in texture due to their high content of waxes and emollients, which may present an issue for oily skin.

  • Sun sprays and mists : Sun sprays and mists are valued for their convenience and rapid application on large body areas or for top-ups during the day. Their light, airy texture makes them pleasant to use in summer. However, there is a drawback: it is essential to apply a sufficient amount, which is not always easy to gauge with a spray. An overly thin or uneven application can reduce the efficacy of the sun protection.

  • Sun lotions : With a fluid, water-rich texture compared with sunscreen creams, the lotions suit large body areas and combination and oily skin. They absorb and do not leave a greasy film on the skin surface.

  • Sun oils : Sun oils combine photoprotection and a satin effect on the skin. Composed only of an oily phase, they can leave a greasy feel. That may deter some people from applying enough. It is essential to remain vigilant: ensure effective protection with a sun oil by applying a generous, even layer.

What are secondary sunscreens?

The awareness of sun protection has grown in recent years. As a result, more products include SPF in their formulation, even though they are not intended to shield the skin from the sun. These products are known as secondary sunscreens. The most popular are the hydrating creams with SPF, valued for simplifying the morning care routine by combining moisturisation and photoprotection. Eye contour formulations with SPF also protect this delicate, overlooked area while providing hydration, as do lip balms with SPF.

Many colour products with SPF have emerged. More foundations and tinted creams include SPF to protect the skin while evening its tone. Concealers and colour correctors may contain a sunscreen agent, offering targeted protection. Loose and tinted powders enriched with UV filters are available. Some lipsticks incorporate SPF to shield the lips and add a touch of colour. All these products support a skincare-infused colour approach sought by consumers.

In principle, secondary sunscreens provide the same level of protection as primary sunscreens because they undergo the same regulatory tests.

However, the actual efficacy depends directly on the applied amount. In practice, people apply less moisturiser or foundation than sunscreen. To reach the protection level stated on the label, you need to use 2 g/cm² of product on the skin. To protect yourself from the sun, we recommend layering a primary sunscreen with one or more secondary sunscreens. Additional sun protection measures (seeking shade, covering up with clothing...) should also be followed.

Key points to remember:

  • SPF (Sun Protection Factor) indicates a product’s ability to protect the skin from UV rays responsible for sunburn.

  • There is a wide range of primary sun protection products (creams, sticks, sprays, lotions, or oils), whose main purpose is to protect the skin from the sun.

  • Secondary sunscreens (moisturisers, foundations, and lip balms…) provide additional sun protection, even though that is not their primary function.

  • To ensure an SPF product is effective, you must apply a sufficient amount of product, about 2 mg/cm² of skin.

Sources

Diagnostic

Understand your skin
and its complex needs.