Imperfections on mature skin: how to get rid of them?

Enlarged pores, blackheads, spots... are common during puberty; however, these blemishes can persist into adulthood. Indeed, mature skin can also be affected by imperfections, in addition to dealing with skin ageing. The appearance of these blemishes is linked to several associated phenomena: hypersecretion of sebum, hyperkeratinisation, bacterial proliferation, skin inflammation and dysseborrhoea (alteration of the sebum composition). This concern can be triggered by both external and internal factors, such as:

• Hormonal Variations: The sebaceous secretion is sensitive to the action of hormones. Thus, androgens (dihydrotestosterone, testosterone...), hydrocortisone, and growth hormone (insulin or IGF) stimulate the proliferation and differentiation of sebocytes, and increase sebaceous lipogenesis;

• Genetic predisposition: heredity is also blamed for the occurrence of imperfections. Depending on the hereditary factor, the sebaceous glands can sometimes be very sensitive to hormones and the production of sebum is then too high;

• Oxidative Stress: in addition to being the cause of accelerated skin ageing, free radicals oxidise the lipids contained in sebum, thus creating an ideal nutritional environment for certain bacteria (particularly Cutibacterium acnes) and consequently increasing the risk of blemish formation;

• Certain medicinal treatments: it can occur that some medications are known to cause an overproduction of sebum, such as corticosteroids, antituberculous drugs, certain contraceptives, vitamin B12, certain antiepileptics...;

• Unsuitable Cosmetics: Cosmetics can also be the cause of breakout of imperfections, particularly overly harsh and comedogenic products that accelerate sebum production;

• Diet : the relationship between a diet rich in dairy products and foods with a high glycemic index and the occurrence of spots has been proven. Indeed, they represent risk factors involved in the phenomena of excessive sebum secretion;

• Lack of skin hydration: The absence of hydration, which involves forming a physical barrier on the skin to protect it from external elements, weakens and exposes the skin. In response to this aggression, the skin reacts by increasing sebum production, which leads to the appearance of blemishes.

In response to this issue, we have developed a serum formulated with active ingredients, which combines sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidant effects and acts on visible signs of ageing. The effectiveness of this wrinkle and blemish serum lies in its synergy of active ingredients, specifically selected to reduce signs of ageing and blemishes. It contains:

• 1% of bakuchiol has functional properties similar to those of retinoids, despite not having significant structural similarities. It is capable of targeting three pathways involved in the pathogenesis of acne : reduction of the secretion of inflammatory mediators, inhibition of the growth of Cutibacterium acnes and regulation of sebum production. Moreover, it is capable of stimulating collagen expression, thus contributing to reducing the depth of wrinkles and improving skin firmness. Bakuchiol also delivers an antioxidant action on the skin, thereby protecting the skin from the harmful effects of oxidative stress. It is also worth noting that bakuchiol presents substantial advantages over retinol: it is photostable and does not cause the many usual adverse effects associated with retinol (irritation, dryness, peeling, erythema, burning sensation on the skin). Finally, results indicate that in addition to being a functional analogue of retinol, bakuchiol can improve the bioavailability of retinol.

• 0.3% of retinol, an active molecule widely used in cosmetic products to reduce the appearance of ageing signs. It operates on several levels: enhancing cellular renewal by activating the proliferation of keratinocytes, firming the skin by inhibiting the activity of enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin (proteins essential for maintaining skin structure) and compensating for this loss by boosting their production, and neutralising free radicals responsible for the degradation of the epidermis. We have chosen to combine it with plant polypeptides to potentiate its effect, and with bakuchiol to better stabilise the retinol, thereby extending its effectiveness, as well as improving tolerance due to the anti-inflammatory effects of bakuchiol;

• of plant-based polypeptides (INCI name: Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76) that work in synergy with retinol to promote collagen synthesis, thereby helping to reduce the depth of wrinkles, densify the skin and redefine the facial contour. These peptides also increase the production of lipids in the stratum corneum, which play a fundamental role as a hydrophobic barrier, as well as the production of keratinocytes (thickening of the epidermis) to improve the skin's protection against external aggressions, and limit water flow and therefore insensible water loss. Finally, they also help to reduce pore size.

This treatment has been designed not only to permanently eliminate imperfections but also to combat skin ageing, particularly by densifying the skin, toning it, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, for a purified and regenerated skin while preserving the skin barrier.

Alongside this serum, it is crucial to incorporate into the skincare routine to tackle both ageing and blemishes: a exfoliating cleansing gel to remove impurities and deeply unclog pores, a moisturising cream to create a protective veil on the skin to shield it from external aggressions and prevent any dehydration, as well as a sun care product with a minimum SPF30 to protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun and free radicals.

• SIVAMANI R. K. & al. Prospective, randomised, double-blind evaluation of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• SODHA P. & al. The application of bakuchiol in dermatology: a review of in vitro and in vivo findings. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2022).