Blemishes on Mature Skin: How to Get Rid of Them?

Dilated pores, blackheads, pimples… are common during puberty; however, sometimes blemished skin persists into adulthood. In fact, mature skin can also be affected by blemishes, in addition to having to cope with skin aging. The appearance of these blemishes on skin is linked to several associated phenomena: sebum hypersecretion, hyperkeratinization, bacterial proliferation, skin inflammation and dysseborrhea (modification of sebum composition). This concern can be caused by both exogenous and internal factors, such as :

• Hormonal variations: sebaceous secretion is sensitive to the action of hormones. For example, androgens (dihydrotestosterone, testosterone…), hydrocortisone and growth hormone (insulin or IGF) stimulate sebocytes proliferation and differentiation, and increase sebaceous lipogenesis;

• Genetic predisposition: heredity is also blamed for the appearance of blemishes on skin. Depending on the hereditary factor, sebaceous glands may be highly sensitive to hormones, resulting in excessive sebum production;

• Oxidative stress: in addition to accelerating skin aging, free radicals oxidize the lipids contained in sebum, creating an ideal nutrient environment for certain bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes in particular) and thus increasing the risk of blemish formation;

• Certain medications: some drugs are known to cause sebum hypersecretion, such as corticosteroids, anti-tuberculosis drugs, certain contraceptives, vitamin B12 and certain anti-epileptics, etc.;

• Unsuitable cosmetics: cosmetics can also be the cause of blemish outbreaks, particularly products that are too stripping and comedogenic, which accelerate sebum production;

• Diet: the relation between a diet rich in dairy products and foods with a high glycemic index and the occurrence of pimples has been proven. In fact, they represent risk factors involved in sebum hypersecretion phenomena;

• Lack of cutaneous hydration: the absence of hydration, which consists in forming a physical barrier on the skin to protect it from external elements, weakens and exposes the skin. Faced with this aggression, the skin responds by increasing sebum production, leading to the appearance of blemished skin.

In response to this problem, we have developed a serum formulated with active ingredients that combine seboregulating, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant effects, while acting on the visible signs of aging. The effectiveness of this wrinkles and blemishes serum lies in its synergy of active ingredients, specifically selected to attenuate signs of aging and blemishes on skin. It contains:

• 1% bakuchiol with functional properties similar to those of retinoids, even though they have few structural similarities. It is able to target three pathways involved in acne pathogenesis: reducing the secretion of inflammatory mediators, inhibiting the growth of Cutibacterium acnes and regulating sebum production. It also stimulates collagen expression, helping to reduce the depth of wrinkles and improve skin firmness. Bakuchiol also delivers an antioxidant action on the skin, protecting it from the damaging effects of oxidative stress. It should also be noted that bakuchiol offers substantial advantages over retinol: it is photostable and does not cause the many side effects usually associated with retinol (irritation, dryness, desquamation, erythema, burning sensation on the skin). Finally, results indicate that, in addition to being a functional retinol analogue, bakuchiol can improve retinol bioavailability.

• 0.3% retinol, an active molecule widely used in cosmetics to reduce the appearance of signs of aging. It works on several levels: improving cell renewal by activating keratinocyte proliferation, firming the skin by inhibiting the activity of enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin (proteins essential to maintaining skin structure) and compensating for this loss by boosting their production, and neutralizing free radicals responsible for epidermal degradation. We have chosen to combine it with plant polypeptides to potentiate its effect, and with bakuchiol to ensure that retinol is better stabilized, prolonging its efficacy, and better tolerated thanks to the anti-inflammatory effects of bakuchiol;

• Plant polypeptides (INCI name: Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76) which act synergistically with retinol to promote collagen synthesis, helping to reduce the depth of wrinkles, redensify skin and redefine the oval of the face. These peptides also increase the production of stratum corneum lipids, which play a fundamental role as a hydrophobic barrier, as well as keratinocyte production (thickening of the epidermis) to improve skin protection against external aggression, and limit the flow of water and thus insensible water loss. Finally, they also help to reduce pore size.

This blemish skin care product for mature skin has been designed not only to durably eliminate blemishes, but also to combat skin aging, notably by redensifying and toning the skin and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, for purified, regenerated skin while preserving the cutaneous barrier.

Combined with this serum, it's important to include in the skincare routine to act on both aging and blemishes on skin: an exfoliating gel cleanser to remove impurities and deeply unclog pores, a moisturizing cream to create a protective veil over the skin to defend it from external aggression and prevent dehydration, and at least SPF30 sun care to protect the skin from the damaging effects of the sun and free radicals.