Eyebrow makeup: what are the tips and mistakes to avoid?

Before applying makeup to your eyebrows, you should ensure that their shape suits you and is adapted to your face. They will only be further complimented this way, and the eyebrow makeup will appear more natural and precise.

The three-point tip is often provided to determine your ideal eyebrow shape. This involves using a ruler, or an eyebrow brush, to draw a line between the edge of your nose and the inner corner of your eye, and then marking a point at the base of the eyebrow. Next, align the ruler between the edge of your nose and the centre of your pupil: this gives you the highest point of the arch. Finally, drawing a line from the edge of your nose to the outer corner of the eye, mark the final point corresponding to the end of the eyebrow. When connected, these three points provide a guiding line for structuring the eyebrow in a balanced way.

Once this shape is determined, you can, if you wish, pluck your eyebrows to approximate it. Be careful, however, to proceed very cautiously, hair by hair, to avoid ending up with sparse areas. For a more precise result, it is better to use tweezers instead of wax, especially if you are a beginner.

Finally, before proceeding to eyebrow make-up, we suggest you to tame them by brushing. It should be done using an eyebrow brush or a mascara-style eyebrow brush. This step allows you to direct the hairs and subsequently facilitates the application of eyebrow makeup products. including eyebrow pencils, whether it's an eyebrow pencil, an eyebrow marker, or a setting gel.

For a beautiful eyebrow makeup, it is important to equip yourself with the right tools, chosen according to the result you wish to achieve.

Not all products have the same function, or the same result, and their selection depends on both your level of expertise, the density of your eyebrows and the desired effect, whether you want something natural, structured, or more intense.

Among the most popular, we find the eyebrow pencil and the eyebrow mascara, which can be used separately or together for more intricate makeup. The former is applied to the skin – and not the hair, contrary to what is sometimes thought - and aims to redraw and restructure the eyebrow line. The eyebrow pencil is particularly interesting for filling in sparsely populated areas or recreating a base. The hair effect eyebrow pencils, with a fine tip, allow for more precise strokes that imitate natural hairs, making them an excellent option for a natural eyebrow makeup or for those with little material.

Tip : If you are a beginner, we recommend using a pencil with a bevelled tip, that is to say, sharpened at an angle rather than at a right angle, as it is easier to apply. Moreover, the precision of the tip will allow you to achieve a natural, hair-like effect.

As for eyebrow mascara, it is applied directly to the hairs. It allows you to add volume, texture and help to tame the brow line. Depending on its shade, it can lightly tint the eyebrows and enhance their intensity. In terms of clear eyebrow mascaras, they can be used to set the hairs without adding any colour, especially if your brow line is already well-defined. Conversely, a tinted gel or a coloured eyebrow mascara is more suitable to visually thicken fine eyebrows.

If you wish to proceed with greater accuracy, an eyebrow pencil presents an interesting alternative. Its fine tip provides the ability to draw clear lines, these are ideal for recreating a hair-by-hair effect, particularly in the case of sparse eyebrows. However, it requires a bit more skill to handle: if the movement is hesitant, the result may appear less natural than with a pencil.

Other textures also exist. Cream-gels, often more pigmented, are applied using a brow brush and intensively structure the line. They are more suited to sophisticated makeup or to very sparse eyebrows.Conversely, powders provide a more diffuse and blended finish, ideal for a subtle and natural result. Finally, some tools, like brow stencils, can help guide the application, particularly for beginners or when struggling to define a symmetrical shape.

The choice of product also depends on your ease.

If you're a beginner or looking for a simple outcome, an eyebrow pencil is the most accessible solution. If you find the result too pronounced or hard to blend, a lighter powder or eyebrow gel could provide a softer finish. Conversely, if your eyebrows are very sparse and you're skilled in eyebrow make-up techniques, combining several products — for example, a pencil to structure, followed by a gel to set — can yield a more uniform result.

Today there are numerous shades available for eyebrow makeup. If you are comfortable with the techniques or if you wish for a more creative makeup, it is entirely possible to play with colours and textures. However, for a natural eyebrow makeup, it is recommended to choose a shade close to your natural colour. The aim is to redefine the line without creating too much contrast.

If you are hesitant between two shades, it is better to favour the lighter one: a colour that is too dark can harden the features of the face and give it a static appearance.

The choice of the shade should also take into account the colour of the hair and the undertone of the skin. For instance, blonde or light chestnut hair typically goes with slightly ashen shades, while darker hair can withstand more intense nuances, as long as they stay close to the colour of the eyebrow. It's also important to match the shade to the product used : an eyebrow pencil deposits more colour than a powder or an eyebrow gel, which can accentuate the colour. Finally, in the case of very light, greying, or barely visible eyebrows, using a tinted gel in blonde tones will better define the eyebrow while maintaining a natural appearance.

Semi-permanent eyebrow makeup encompasses several techniques, such as microblading, microshading or even eyebrow dermopigmentation. They involve implanting pigments into the superficial layers of the skin in order to redesign the eyebrow line. Microblading allows for a very realistic hair-by-hair effect, while microshading provides a more powder-like finish, similar to that achieved with an eyebrow powder makeup. Dermopigmentation, broader in its approach, encompasses different pigmentation methods depending on the desired effect. It is noteworthy that eyebrow tattooing, historically deeper and more permanent, is now tending to be replaced by these more natural and evolving semi-permanent techniques, the results of which last approximately three months.

These techniques can be particularly beneficial in several situations: when eyebrows are very sparse, asymmetrical, or scarcely visible, or even when certain areas no longer grow back. They may also be suitable for those wishing to simplify their eyebrow makeup routine, or who encounter difficulties applying eyebrow makeup daily. In cases of practically non-existent eyebrows, semi-permanent makeup allows for the recreation of a basic structure, subsequently facilitating the possible application of an eyebrow pencil or gel to adjust intensity.

However, semi-permanent eyebrow makeup is not insignificant and requires prior consideration.

The obtained result is heavily reliant on the expertise of the professional, the choice of shape and shade, as well as the skin's reaction to the pigments. Over time, the colour can evolve, lighten or slightly change in tone, implying the need for regular touch-ups. Moreover, certain types of skin, especially sensitive ones or those prone to skin conditions, may react differently. Therefore, it is essential to be well informed in advance, to conduct a test if necessary, and to approach a qualified practitioner in order to achieve a harmonious result compatible with the facial features.

The removal of eyebrow makeup is a step that is often overlooked, yet it is essential for maintaining the skin's balance and the quality of the hairs. Eyebrow makeup products contain pigments, waxes, and film-forming agents designed to ensure their durability. If not properly removed, these residues can accumulate on the skin's surface and within the hair follicles, promoting the blockage of pores and potentially disrupting the hair growth cycle. In the long run, this can contribute to weakening the eyebrows, or even exacerbating their sparse appearance.

Proceed with caution, however: removing makeup should not weaken the eyebrows and should be done with a gentle product, suitable for the sensitive area of the eye contour.

For instance, you can use a cleansing oil, to apply with clean fingertips by gently massaging the area, without excessively rubbing. This kind of texture effectively dissolves the pigments and greasy substances of the makeup whilst respecting the hair fibre. Afterwards rinse with clear water to remove any residues.

A micellar water can also be suitable, particularly for light makeup. Soak a cotton pad, then apply it for a few seconds to each eyebrow to give the micelles time to dissolve the impurities. Then gently glide the cotton pad, in the direction of hair growth, to remove the residues without weakening the eyebrows or irritating the skin.

Note : An effective eyebrow cleansing also enhances the efficiency of the subsequent treatments applied to the eyebrows, such as serums or oils.