As winter sets in, the skin becomes more vulnerable than ever. Tightness, roughness, feelings of discomfort... These signs often indicate xerosis cutis, a significant skin dryness related to an imbalance in its barrier function. But why does xerosis worsen when temperatures drop? Several factors come into play, which we invite you to discover.
Winter Xerosis: Why does skin become drier in winter?
Published on February 20, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
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How can we explain winter xerosis?
When temperatures plummet and the air becomes drier, the skin is put through its paces. Designed to act as a barrier, it must constantly adapt to changes in its environment. Winter imposes specific challenges: between the cold, wind, decreasing humidity and indoor heating that dries out the air, the skin's balance is compromised. The result: the skin's insensible water loss (IWL) increases, its surface becomes rougher and feelings of discomfort set in. When this dryness becomes very significant, it is referred to as xerosis. This phenomenon is based on several factors that impair the skin's ability to maintain its hydration.
One of the initial consequences of cold on the skin is the reduction in lipid production. To recap, the skin is composed of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The outermost layer, the epidermis, is itself subdivided into four layers, including the stratum corneum, located on the surface. Between the corneocytes, the cells of the stratum corneum, are lipids, such as ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which seal the cells together and prevent the evaporation of water. This evaporation is also limited by the hydrolipidic film, a mixture of sweat and sebum that covers the skin.
Indeed, when temperatures drop, blood vessels tend to contract: this is known as vasoconstriction. To preserve the warmth of vital organs, such as the heart and lungs, the body reduces blood flow to the skin, which slows down the supply of oxygen and essential nutrients for the production of sebum and epidermal lipids. With fewer ceramides to ensure cellular cohesion and a weakened hydrolipidic film, the skin becomes more permeable and water evaporates more easily. This mechanism is amplified by the humidity of the outside air, which significantly decreases in winter. The water contained in the skin then escapes into the surrounding air. The drier the air, the faster this evaporation occurs, thus accelerating skin dehydration. Moreover, the wind, often strong in winter, exacerbates this process by sweeping away the hydrolipidic film.
Finally, beyond these biological phenomena, certain daily habits contribute to worsening winter xerosis. Hot showers and baths, although comforting during this season, tend to dissolve the lipids in the epidermis, further weakening the skin barrier. Similarly, heating systems significantly dry out the surrounding air, intensifying the skin's water loss.
Winter xerosis results from an increased loss of water through the skin, primarily caused by the cold, wind, and a decrease in ambient humidity.
Advice for combating winter xerosis?
To mitigate the effects of winter xerosis, we recommend adopting a skincare routine that combines hydration and protection. More than just providing comfort, the daily application of a cream or balm rich in humectants, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerine, emollients, like ceramides, and occlusives, such as shea butter, becomes essential to restore the skin barrier and prevent water loss. You may, for example, opt for our lipid-replenishing balm, suitable for both facial and body skin. Formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients, it extends the periods between severe dryness and provides continuous hydration for 24 hours.
Another recommendation to prevent winter xerosis: opt for gentle cleansers and avoid overly hot showers. Indeed, some cleansing products contain sulfates, surfactants with strong cleaning power, but also known for their potential to irritate. However, skin weakened by xerosis needs gentleness and lipid-replenishing cleansing care, like our lipid-enriched cleansing bar for example. Suitable for sensitive and atopic-prone skin, this care product formulated at the physiological pH of the skin gently cleanses and soothes feelings of tightness. Free from sulfates, it contains calendula extract, sweet almond oil and shea butter, natural ingredients recognised for their effectiveness in cases of xerosis.
Winter puts the skin through a tough test, but a suitable skincare routine can help prevent xerosis and maintain soft and comfortable skin, even in freezing weather.
Sources
GALL Y. & al. Seasonal variability in the biophysical properties of stratum corneum from different anatomical sites. Skin Research and Technology (2000).
ROBERTS M. S. & et al. Skin biology, dry skin, barrier restoration and assessment. Drug Discovery Today: Disease Mechanisms (2008).
GIMÉNEZ-ARNAU A. & al. Xerosis: A Dysfunction of the Epidermal Barrier. Actas Dermo-Sifiliográficas (2008).
THYSSEN J. P. & et al. The impact of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis.Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology(2016).
KOTTNER J. & al. Molecular characterisation of xerosis cutis: A systematic review. Plos One (2021).
